Category Archives: Off Beaten Path

VIDEO: Saigon, My Saigon

My Saigon is not the high-rises or attractions of downtown. My Saigon is the local neighbourhood where I live – the alleyways, the market, and the people who inhabit it. In this film I’ve tried to capture the rhythm of daily life over 24 hours on a rainy season day in the area I live in… Continue reading

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Saigon’s Street Food ‘Ghettos’

Throughout Saigon, there are clusters of crumbling old apartment complexes, all of which are on the verge of either collapse or demolition. Living conditions appear cramped and grim but, outside on the sidewalks, the street life and street food is among the best and most vibrant in the city… Continue reading

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The Deep South: Riding the Dragon’s Tail

After 9 years travelling in Vietnam, the last four provinces that I have yet to visit are all in the Mekong Delta. These are the southernmost provinces in the country: the Deep South or, as I like to call it, the Dragon’s Tail. I thought it was about time I made it to all Vietnam’s 63 provinces, so I finally set out to travel as far south as roads go… Continue reading

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Ha Giang Extreme North Motorbike Loop

Ha Giang, Vietnam’s northern-most province, is home to a mythical landscape of conical limestone peaks & craterous valleys. Considered the last frontier for adventurous travel in Vietnam, this motorbike loop offers perhaps the most thrilling road trip in the country… Continue reading

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Ho Citadel (Thành Nhà Hồ)

Designated a World Heritage site in 2011, Ho Citadel is a 14th century royal enclosure surrounded by pretty farmland. The ruins, partly obscured by foliage, are extensive and farming still continues inside this former imperial city… Continue reading

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Local Guest Houses: Nhà Nghỉ

Essential knowledge for the adventurous or budget traveller in Vietnam, ‘nhà nghỉ’ means ‘guest house’ in Vietnamese. However, this form of cheap accommodation often goes unnoticed by foreign travellers & suffers from a bad reputation among local people… Continue reading

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Vung Ro Bay

A gorgeous, undeveloped bay on the south-central coast, 2015 might be the last chance you get to visit Vung Ro before construction starts on two enormous, multi-billion dollar projects, that will change the area forever. Continue reading

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Con Dao Islands on a Budget

Despite several high-profile luxury developments, travel to the Con Dao Islands needn’t be too expensive. Budget travellers & backpackers can still enjoy this beautiful archipelago by taking certain steps. This is my guide to how to keep the cost of visiting one of Vietnam’s most enchanting destinations to a minimum. Continue reading

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Camping in Dalat

The best thing about Dalat is not the city itself but the natural beauty of the surrounding area – purple mountains cloaked in pine forests stretching into the misty distance – and camping is the best way to experience it. Continue reading

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Hòn Gốm Sandbar: Motorbike Guide

Vietnam’s most easterly point, Hòn Gốm Sandbar stretches 30km into the South China Sea. Deserted, wild beaches line both sides, and a couple of tiny fishing villages shelter in calm coves. A new road runs along almost the entire length of the sandbar, making a great road trip from Nha Trang. Continue reading

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Dai Lanh Beach

Đại Lãnh Beach is a pretty stretch of sand squeezed between lush mountains, on the south-central coast. It should be more popular than it is, but its proximity to Highway 1 means that noise can be a problem. However, this will change once a new tunnel under the mountains is completed. Continue reading

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Homestays: Pù Luông Nature Reserve

Homestays in Vietnam offer some of the best value accommodation and food that’s available anywhere in the country. The homestays in Bản Hiêu, a village on a mountainside in the stunning landscape of Pù Luông Nature Reserve, are some of the most atmospheric and romantic you could hope to find. Continue reading

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Cà Phê Bệt: Saigon’s Street Coffee Scene

At 5 o’clock in the afternoons in Saigon, high schools and universities disgorge their students into the busy streets. Dusk is one of the coolest times of day, and many of these students head for one of the city’s parks, where they buy food and drink from street vendors and sit on the grass talking into the evening hours – this is Cà Phê Bệt. Continue reading

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The Limestone Loop: Motorbike Guide

Thanh Hóa is a province of limestone pinnacles, rivers and rice paddies. Quiet roads meander through steep valleys cloaked in bamboo forests, and mountain passes twist skyward towards remote Lao border crossings. New highways and upgraded roads have cut travel time between Thanh Hóa Province and Hanoi to within 2 or 3 hours. Continue reading

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