Last updated February 2025 | Words and photos by Joshua Zukas
Joshua is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. A freelancer whose body of work focuses primarily on travel & architecture, Joshua covers Vietnam regularly for Lonely Planet, Michelin Guide, Insider, Ink Global & many of Asia’s top inflight magazines. He also writes intermittently for publications such as The Economist, Wallpaper & Interior Design Magazine. He holds an MSc in sustainable tourism….read more about Joshua
Bản Giốc Waterfall is one of Vietnam’s most impressive natural sights. Located right on the border with China in the northeastern province of Cao Bằng, the falls are 30 metres high and 300 metres across, making Bản Giốc the widest (but not the highest) waterfall in the country. The falls form a dramatic segment of the Quây Sơn River, a jade-blue waterway that flows from China through a pastoral landscape of rice fields and bamboo groves surrounded by limestone pinnacles. Despite improved road access, newly paved footpaths and increased social media coverage, Bản Giốc is still relatively off-the-beaten-path, especially when compared with the Hà Giang Loop in Cao Bằng’s neighbouring province to the northwest. Mass tourism has yet to arrive in Cao Bằng and, outside of public holidays, the falls rarely overflow with visitors. While the waterfall is the main draw, it is not the only reason to make the journey from Cao Bằng City: the road also passes old forges, a stone village and an impressive cave system, not to mention the karstic scenes that northern Vietnam is famous for. Bản Giốc Waterfall is also a highlight for riders exploring the Northeast Loops by motorbike.
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GUIDE: BAN GIOC WATERFALL
One of Vietnam’s Most Impressive Natural Sights
This guide focuses on the waterfall and surrounding area, including places to see and things to do, followed by information about accommodation, food and drink, transportation, and a map. The waterfall can be visited at any time of year, but the best time is September, when the summer rains that feed the falls are less frequent and the harvest is in full swing. October and November also tend to be good, though the harvest will have stripped the landscape of its colour. Most people explore Bản Giốc from Cao Bằng City, 90km southwest of the falls (see Transportation). However, it’s well worth setting aside at least a whole day, as the road to the falls passes Phúc Sen knife-making village, Ngườm Ngao Cave, and Khuổi Ky stone village (see Sights En Route). Some travellers might even opt to overnight in one of the atmospheric homestays in Khuổi Ky or in more standard accommodation closer to the falls (see Accommodation). If you’re an independent traveller looking to get away from Vietnam’s most popular (i.e. overtouristed) destinations, then Bản Giốc Waterfall is the jewel in the crown of what is currently my favourite province. (See Related Guides for more sights in the region.)
CONTENTS:
MAP:
Bản Giốc Waterfall, Cao Bằng Province
Villages & Sights En Route:
Travelling to Bản Giốc Waterfall from Cao Bằng City along roads QL3 and DT206 passes various places of interest, some of which I’ve written about below. The first is Phúc Sen village, 30km east of the city just after the Mã Phục Pass. This cluster of hamlets is famous for its blacksmiths – you’ll know you’ve arrived when you see roadside shops selling knives that look like they’ve been dug up from some iron age archaeological site. Though not an especially attractive place, Phúc Sen’s craft may date back centuries: according to local media, the breakaway Mạc Dynasty established weaponry workshops here when it challenged the presiding Lê Dynasty in the 16th century. For some of the village’s more dramatically situated forges, don’t stop in the centre of the village. Instead, drive through it, continuing on the road to Bản Giốc, and stop at one of the workshops that perch somewhat precariously on the side of the road overlooking a deep valley.
Leaving road QL3 behind after the junction at Quảng Uyên, road DT206 will take you all the way to the falls. If you have time, you can make short detours to see smaller falls along the way, including Thác Độc Lập and Thác Thoong Ma, but note that these might only have water during rainy season (May-September). The views after Phúc Sen are pastoral and scenic. Farming techniques have changed little here over the centuries: save for some mechanised rice threshers, most of the work is done by hand. One piece of technology you may spot along the banks of the river is the bamboo water wheel. This medieval-looking, river-powered device scoops up water, carries it to the level of the fields, and drops it into earth gutters, which channel the water into the fields to irrigate the crops. It’s a hypnotic sight and a genius piece of engineering, but it would appear that they are slowly dying out. On my last visit, only one was operating, and a couple were in a state of disrepair. Each time the province experiences a major storm, these water wheels must be repaired or rebuilt.
The next village of interest is Khuổi Ky, just a few kilometres from Bản Giốc. Like Phúc Sen, Khuổi Ky has a history that might date back to the 16th century. According to a sign in the village, the architecture of Khuổi Ky changed during the Mạc Dynasty, when the fledgling ruling family was trying to assert its authority through the construction of fortified settlements made with stone. Perhaps to make them like fortresses, the houses in Khuổi Ky were also built with stone, an interesting switch considering the village is Tày, an ethnic group famed for their wooden stilt structures. The village is undeniably attractive and unusual, but like many heritage settlements in Vietnam, it can be difficult to disentangle the antique architecture, the restored houses and the new builds. Khuổi Ky is poised to become a tourist hotspot, with several homestays, small hotels and restaurants. Outside of public holidays, it should be possible to turn up and find a room for the night quickly and easily (see Accommodation for details).
Though tantalisingly close to Bản Giốc, it’s also worth spending an hour or so at Ngườm Ngao Cave, a mere kilometre south of Khuổi Ky on a paved lane (or save it for the return journey). I first visited this cave and its unexpectedly impressive underground chambers in 2013, and more than ten years later it’s still possible to turn up at any time and pay a small fee (45,000vnd) to explore inside. The cave is large with various stalagmites, stalactites and columns speckled throughout the chambers. It’s also possible to pay extra (200,000vnd) for a more experienced guide that will take you deeper into the cave, an experience that has received good feedback, though I didn’t partake so can’t speak to the quality and safety standards of the tour.
Bản Giốc Waterfall:
At Bản Giốc, the Quây Sơn River forms the border between Vietnam and China and, consequently, the falls are shared by both countries. Because the falls are located on the Chinese border, foreign travellers used to require a special permit to visit the area. But today, you can simply turn up and buy a ticket (45,000vnd) at the kiosk without any documents at all, before walking down a paved path to the waterfall. The path threads through rice fields, over concrete bridges above gurgling creeks and onto an exposed grassy bank at the bottom of the falls. The entrance feels overly built up and manicured, but any annoyance this may cause will soon be washed away by the sight of the falls. The wide, white cascade is fringed with foliage and framed by sharp, tooth-like limestone mountains, which are partly obscured by drifting clouds of vapour from all the spray. It’s quite possible to spend an hour or two scrambling around the falls, viewing them from different angles and taking photos (and the best activity of all: watching other people take photos).
Rafts (100,000vnd per person) punt visitors closer to the cascade for better views, and it’s possible to wave at tourists on the Chinese side who are doing the same thing (they are guaranteed to wave enthusiastically back). The jaunt lasts about 10 minutes and you’ll definitely get wet. Swimming is prohibited.
Across a wooden bridge to a beach beneath the falls, there’s a treacherous path leading up through jungle to elevated views. Not for the faint-hearted – or for those without proper footwear – this track climbs steeply among vines and roots to several gorgeous pools of blue running water. Tread carefully because the rocks are slippery and soon you’ll reach the edge of a ledge, from where the water drops straight down into a giant limestone bowl below. When I visited it wasn’t clear whether this was allowed or not – there was no sign saying it was prohibited and yet I seemed to be the only one doing it.
Considering the waterfall’s proximity to China, and the frosty history (both ancient and recent) between the two countries, the atmosphere at Bản Giốc is very relaxed and official presence on either side of the falls feels minimal. It’s easy to forget that this province was one of several points along the Chinese border where, in February 1979, the PLA entered Vietnam under the orders of Deng Xiaoping. There were various complicated geopolitical reasons for the invasion, but ultimately thousands of Vietnamese and Chinese were killed and, when the Chinese army departed (or retreated, depending on whose version of events you believe), they laid waste to the land they had briefly occupied. Along the road that follows the border just beyond the falls, there are memorial shrines dedicated to local Vietnamese who died during this border skirmish. Also on this road, opposite the entrance to the falls, is a good viewing point from the new but nevertheless picturesque hilltop pagoda. Climb to the top and look back on Bản Giốc for a final farewell to the falls.
If returning to Cao Bằng City with your own wheels, it’s possible to continue due east of the falls along road DT206, which skirts along the Chinese border before bearing south and becoming DT207 and looping back around to rejoin QL3 at Quảng Uyên (see the red line on my map). Alternatively, return the same way you arrived, stopping at any points of interest that you may have missed.
Accommodation:
Fortunately, the area around Bản Giốc is yet to see any significant development bar the mid-range Saigon-Bản Giốc Resort [BOOK HERE], a big, sprawling complex but not high enough to be an eyesore. The rooms are what one has come to expect from the Saigon Tourist hotels: clean, comfortable and devoid of any charm or character. If you get a room on the higher terraces you can just about see the falls (or at least some spray) from your balcony. There are several cheap guesthouses on the road connecting Khuổi Ky and Bản Giốc, but nowhere of note. A far more appealing option if staying near the falls is heading to Khuổi Ky and looking for a homestay or guesthouse. There are dozens, so you might only need to book ahead during national holidays. Of the guesthouses (ignore the word ‘homestay’ in this list), I looked at Yen Nhi Homestay, Lan Rừng Homestay (note: the food here is good) and Tày Homestay, all of which had clean, basic rooms made from concrete and stone. These tend to be popular with travelling groups of large Vietnamese families. Most of the real homestays (i.e. where you stay in a section of the family’s house and not in a hotel room) are in the northern part of the village, close to road DT206. Minh Khang Homestay is attractive and appears to be particularly ancient – according to the owner some the beams are more than 400 years old. There are also various humdrum hotels and guesthouses (nhà nghỉ) in the two largest towns between Cao Bằng City and Bản Giốc: Trùng Khánh (23km west of Bản Giốc; 60km east of Cao Bằng City) and Quảng Uyên (48km east of Bản Giốc; 35km east of Cao Bằng City).
However, the vast majority of visitors to Bản Giốc stay in Cao Bằng City, a likeable provincial capital 83km west of the falls that is teeming with hotels. The larger hotels are along Kim Đồng Street, which is pedestrianised during weekend evenings, and the parallel smaller street which runs along the river. This is where you’ll find the inevitable Mường Thanh Hotel [BOOK HERE], a glass-clad behemoth and the city’s most luxurious stay. A far more appealing part of the city is north of the Hồ Chí Minh statue, inside the n-shaped riverbend. One comfortable but somewhat faux Trumpian option is the Los Angeles Hotel [BOOK HERE], which looks over the square. Simpler and more friendly hotels include Jodevi Homestay and Ca Homestay, both popular with young Vietnamese motorbike travellers and foreign backpackers, but there are many, many more which you can search and book at the following link on Agoda.com. As in the rest of the province, booking ahead usually isn’t necessary outside of public holidays.
Food & Drink:
There is a row of acceptable but forgettable eateries serving rice and noodles (cơm-phở) outside of the entrance to Bản Giốc Waterfall. The best food near the falls is probably at Saigon-Bản Giốc Resort, as the dishes cooked up at Saigon Tourist hotels are usually decent and not overpriced. A more compelling option is to eat in Khuổi Ky, as most of the homestays and guesthouses have a meal service (see Accommodation). The issue here is that it’s not always possible to turn up and eat straight away as the ingredients are bought to order. If you’re not comfortable calling ahead and ordering in Vietnamese (understandable), consider stopping here on your way to the falls, order your lunch, explore the falls and then come back one or two hours later. The food at Lan Rừng Homestay is recommended. You will also find simple restaurants and eateries serving noodles and rice on the road between Cao Bằng City and Bản Giốc, especially in Trùng Khánh and Quảng Uyên.
In Cao Bằng, there’s a spread of restaurants to choose from. Two provincial specialties are bánh cuốn (wet rice paper dumplings served with a herby broth; usually eaten at breakfast) and phở chua (noodles with a sweet and sour sauce; eaten all day), which you can try at Quán Bánh Cuốn Chị Thi and Phở Chua Gia Truyền Quyên respectively. Nhà Hàng Linh Hằng is popular with locals and is known for its hot pot (lẩu). If you’re craving western, Pedro’s Pizza serves pretty good pies considering Cao Bằng’s remoteness. There are also several rice and noodle restaurants around Chợ Xanh, the city’s central market, where you can stock up on picnic items like fruit and bánh mì. On weekend evenings when Kim Đồng Street is pedestrianised, various makeshift snack stalls selling fast food appear on the pavements. Cao Bằng has a surprising number of cool cafes, the most special of which might be Nâng Café, which has small wooden chairs scattered around a fishpond.
Transportation:
It may be easier than ever to visit Bản Giốc, but still very few people, especially foreign travellers, make it here. This is perhaps because it still requires a not insignificant amount of time: at the very least a full day (or night) to get to Cao Bằng from Hanoi, another day to get to the falls and back and then another full day (or night) to get back to Hanoi. For some visitors, Bản Giốc is near the top of their list – until they discover how many days it demands.
Bản Giốc Waterfall is 83km east of Cao Bằng City. As it gives you the freedom to stop when you want, it’s highly recommended that you explore Bản Giốc with your own transport: either a rented motorbike (with or without driver) or a rented car (with or without driver). Motorbikes are available for rent from most hotels and guesthouses in Cao Bằng for around 200,000vnd per day, and your accommodation should also be able to arrange a car and driver for the day (around $80-$100 per day).
Another option is to take public transportation: small local buses run from Cao Bằng to Bản Giốc and back several times each day. Ask the staff at your accommodation for more information. However, though very cheap, this option is generally not recommended as you lose the ability to stop at areas that interest you. If you’re travelling on a budget but you’re not comfortable driving a motorbike, consider staying in a cheap hotel in Cao Bằng City and talking to the receptionist about renting a motorbike with driver. Cao Bằng Easy Deeping Tours has been recommended to me, but I’ve not tried their service.
Getting to Cao Bằng from Hanoi is straightforward: either take a bus (including two-level sleeper buses) from Hanoi (6-7 hours) or, if you have your own wheels, take Highway QL3 (which is in excellent condition for most of the way and passes great scenery towards the end of the journey) from Hanoi to Cao Bằng (267km). Note that it is one very long day of driving between Hanoi and Cao Bằng, so consider splitting the journey with an overnight stop in Bắc Kạn or, better yet, with two nights in Ba Bể National Park. A few bus companies also ply the meandering route between Hà Giang and Lạng Sơn, via Cao Bằng.
From Cao Bằng City to the Bản Giốc Waterfall stay on road QL3 east via the scenic Mã Phục Pass to Quảng Uyên, then turn left (due north) on road DT206, which veers east at the town of Trùng Khánh before reaching Bản Giốc (see the blue line on my map). For the return journey, it is possible to create a loop by taking roads DT206 and DT207 due east of the falls and then south before rejoining road QL3 at Quảng Uyên (see the red line on my map). For motorbike riders wanting to incorporate the waterfall in a much wider road trip in the region, consider following the Northeast Loops.
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Joshua has written this guide because he wants to: he likes Bản Giốc Waterfall and he wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
Hu Tom,I just found you on looking up the Ben Gioc falls. Which I find very interesting /Im 70 years old / and would like to visit the falls and whilst up north I would also like to visit Dien Bien Phu,the battle site, in 2025. Any advice would be greatly appreciated regarding time of year ,accom. options and transport , I am not so mobile shortwalking but enjoy trains, busses and boats not so fussed on motorbikes . Cheers all the best Bob B
Hi Bob,
Unfortunately, there aren’t any trains to either of those locations. You can fly to Dien Bien Phu from Hanoi – that’s a good option, because the alternative is a very long bus journey. Once you’re in Dien Bien Phu, it’s quite easy to find your way around the city, including the battle sites and museums. There’s food everywhere in town and for hotels can you browse a booking site like Agoda.
For Ban Gioc Waterfall, you can take a bus from Hanoi to Cao Bang city (about 5-8 hours), and from there you can arrange a car to the waterfall (about 1 hour) through your hotel.
Best,
Tom
Great blog Tom –
Noted the mosquito netting in the lodging picture and wondering if mosquitos and/or malaria are an issue in that region of Vietnam. A small team of us have distributed wheelchairs in virtually every region from south of Saigon to north of Hanoi and never had a mosquito problem.
Thanks,
Troy
Hi Troy,
In general, every region of Vietnam has mosquitoes in the mornings and late afternoons, but it varies depending of time of year. In that respect, Cao Bang (where Ban Gioc waterfall is located) is not different from the other regions you’ve already visited. It’s a good idea to bring repellent spray and sleep under mosquito nets if you are worried about getting bitten.
Best,
Tom
Tom –
Really appreciate your prompt reply and suggestions. Keep up the good work!
Thanks,
Troy
Hi,
Hope you are well.
Just got a question, hoping you can help.
How far and how difficult is it from the entrance (car access) to the view points of the waterfall? I have an 11 year old boy and 80 year old parent. Do you think they’ll make the walk?
Ta
Nat.
Hi Nat,
It depends which viewing points you are going to – there are many. But to walk from the car park to the viewing platforms near the bottom of the waterfall isn’t very far and it should be fine for your parents and child. My parents (late 70s) also did it.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
If I’m purely just visiting the waterfalls how many hours would you recommend there? I’m busing from Cao bang. Thanks
Hi Mesh,
2-3 hours is probably about right if you just want to walk around the waterfall, maybe take a raft out, and walk up to a couple of view points.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom
Hope your fine
How is the waterfall ? Is it really worth to visit now
Hi Swathi,
Yes, it’s worth a visit: it’s one of the most impressive natural sights in Vietnam.
Best,
Tom
I am solo traveller staying in haiphong,would love to travel this Friday night and come back Sunday night,how much would you charge .If possible can I get zalo contact
Hi Swathi,
Sorry, I’m not a tour guide or a tour operator: I don’t run tours; I write guides so that travellers can follow them independently.
Best,
Tom
Thank you so much
Hi Tom, we just returned from 2 rainy weeks in central Vietnam and looking forward to our return at the end of March where we will get a xfer directly to Ba Be lake where we will spend 3 days before getting a bus to Cao Bang. We will rent a bike there, head to Pak Bo for one night , then make our way slowly to Ban Gioc for 2 or 3 nights before returning to Hanoi for our flight home. We live in Philippines and had to cancel this trip at beginning of covid, we have a serow 250 and ofyen take 4 day trips round our island, some offroad. We actually have 3 days unaccounted for so i am wondering if you have any ideas. We dont really want to ride more than 80 kms a day as we like to take our time . What you think of Trang Khanh, Quang Uyen, Phia Thap, Tra Linh or Thang Hen Lake. Any of these worth an overnight stay or can you suggest something else
Thanks,David
Hi David,
Yes, I would say that Phia Thap and Thang Hen lake are both fine for an overnight stop – there are a fair few decent homestays and glamping sites around both places. Thang Hen is also next to Núi Mắt Thần – a limestone karst with a big hole in it. In general, the scenery in that northeastern corner of Vietnam is gorgeous, so slow travel there should be very rewarding. If you have decent bikes, you can also do some good exploring on smaller back-roads.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I love to travel. So, love to read travel related blogs. I am planning to visit Vietnam for 4-5 days. Is it possible to cover most attractive places. If so, what will be my itinerary?
Please advise me.
Best
Chandra Shekhar Das
Hi Chandra,
4-5 days isn’t enough to visit most attractions in Vietnam. With 4-5 days you can visit one city and one destination. For example, Hanoi and Halong Bay, or Saigon and Phu Quoc Island.
To get more of an idea of the variety of destinations in Vietnam, I suggest browsing my Destinations Category Archives and Map.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I am a very frequent reader of your blog. I get many great ideas from you when I travel in Vietnam:) I am planning a one week Ha Giang loop in the beginning of October. I wonder if it’s feasible to include Ban Gioc? I would have 7days in Ha Giang.
Thanks for the advice.
Best
Nora
Hi Nora,
It is possible to include Ban Gioc, but it is a significant detour from Ha Giang: a day there and a day back. The roads are very mountainous so journeys take a long time, even if the distances aren’t that great. So if you have 7 days, I would plan on 4-5 days on the Ha Giang Loop and then 2-3 days to/from Ban Gioc.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hello Tom love your blog, I am going to be to Cao Bang this September or October. Would love to hear your experience of which month that is good without raining but still full of water of Ban Gioc waterfall? Is it worth to ride a motobike from Hanoi to Cao Bang, or just taking bus? (I took bus from Hanoi to HaGiang as there were not much thing to see on the way) — if riding a motobike which spots should I stop for every night as I take the trip easy planning 10 days for Cao Bang trip. Thank you.
Hi Loan,
September-October is usually a good time to see the falls – there should be lots of water but the weather is often good at that time of year too.
You can take a bus from Hanoi to Cao Bang then rent a bike there and ride to the falls – it’s a beautiful drive. For more about that route and other ones around there see this guide.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Thanks Tom.
Hello Tom, again thank you for your great info of the loop, I am going to do your 3 loops: Ba Be Lake Loop, Ban Gioc waterfall Loop, China border crawl Loop, could you get 3G/4G all the way? How are about the gas and flat tire? Thank you.
Hi Loan,
I don’t know for certain, but you’ll likely have 3G most of the way – try to use a Viettel sim as they tend to get the best coverage in mountainous and remote regions.
As for gas, it’s generally available in all towns on the routes, but don’t let your tank get too low before you refill, just to be sure.
In Vietnam, you’re never far from someone who can fix a flat tyre for you, or at least knows someone who can. People are generally very willing to help out a traveller in need.
Good luck,
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for sharing your wonderful informative experience here. I read that the China side (Detian waterfalls) are more beautiful. Is it possible to walk from the Vietnam side to the China side to see as well?
Hi James,
That’s a common line that people throw around for some reason: ‘The Chinese side is more beautiful’. I don’t know how it started but it’s not the case. You can get a raft to punt you out in the river so you can view the waterfall from both sides at water level. Chinese tourists can cross to the Vietnamese side, but not vice versa. No doubt in China they say ‘The Vietnamese side is better’.
Tom
Hello Tom, we’re planning our trip to Vietnam and have run into a little issue. We plan to go from Hanoi to Cao Bang to see the waterfalls, and we have found a bus that take us there but on the websites we can’t find any bus that can take us back from Cao Bang to Hanoi. Do you know if it is possible to just go to a bus station and get some tickets?
Thanks a lot,
Greetings from Spain!
Hi Jan,
Yes, you should definitely be able to get a bus from Cao Bang back to Hanoi – there are lots of buses every day. As long as you’re not travelling on a public holiday you should be able to buy/book your bus ticket in Cao Bang, either through your accommodation or at the bus station there (if you can’t do it online, of course).
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hi
Has anyone done the DT206 along the border and then DT207 from Ban Gioc falls back to Cao Bang?
Hi Giles,
I’ve written about that route here. Unfortunately, all reports are that the route along the border is in awful condition due to articulated trucks tearing up the road, trading with China. Expect mud and potholes. However, there’s always the chance that the road has been upgraded recently. I would suggest asking in at QT Motorbikes in Cao Bang, which they have recently opened.
If you do decide to take the border route, please report back in the comments sections on this page.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks Tom, will do. I will see if I can find out from anyone who has done the route recently as well
Just to let everyone know that as of 19/01/18, they’ve stationed a guard at the bottom of the path up to the higher falls. Just a guy with a whistle, but still.
If you get here early/ late then maybe you’ll be able to go up unhindered, but who knows.
Thanks for that, Tom.
Hi, thank you so much. I have booked a flight to Vietnam to see BAN GIOC. I was relieved to read that their is a bus going to BAN GIOC, as I do not drive a motorbike. I am a solo traveler and I have visited some places on my own..the challenge for Vietnam is the ease of transport as compared to Hong Kong and Taiwan ..So I can now breath knowing that I would not need to use a motorbike going to this falls , even if it is recommended.
Hi Florian,
Thanks. I hope you enjoy your visit. Yes, there’s a local bus to Ban Gioc from Cao Bang. You should be able to find out the times from your hotel in Cao Bang.
Good luck,
Tom
Hi Tom. Thanks for this post. Can you please answer me some questions. Is this part of the famous Ha Giang Loop? Can a clumsy guy do it alone riding a bike for the first time? In which city I start and how much a low budget person expect to spend over 3 days? Thanks
Hi Ticiano,
No, it’s not part of the Ha Giang Loop – the Ha Giang Loop is this guide.
You start from Cao Bang, as explained in the guide above.
For general daily expenses read this.
Tom
Thank you so much for this detailed post! I’m currently in Hanoi and plan to visit the falls this week. I got some info from a friend who’d done it a week ago but your post fleshed out any and all remaining questions/concerns. Thanks a mil!
Hi Anna,
Thank you. I hope your trip to the fall goes well 🙂
Tom
Hi Tom. I love your blog. Such beautiful pictures and great information. I am in the process of booking a tour of Vietnam for this coming mid December. I just added a 3 day tour for the falls and Ba Be lake etc. Its now pushing the limits of my budget. I just wanted to know of your thoughts of if it is a good time to see the falls. Is the water going to be flowing enough for it to be worth it? I think the experience will be amazing regardless but my budget is tight with this and I’m not sure if I should save for a future vacation or so it now. Thanks.
Hi Misty,
Yes, there should still be plenty of water at the falls during December – I think it’s supposed to be one of the highest months for rainfall.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Planning a trip to Vietnam this November with my wife and 6 year old son, do you know if there is a car rental from Cao Bang City? Rates? I am pretty good in riding motorcycles but I don’t wanna do it with my wife and kid and would prefer riding a car if possible. Next question, do you know if Drones are allowed in the waterfalls?
Thanks much,
Conrad
Hi Conrad,
It’s highly unlikely that drones are ‘allowed’, because it’s a border region. However, I have seen plenty of drone videos of Ban Gioc. Personally, I wouldn’t risk it.
Most hotels in Cao Bang should be able to arrange a car a driver for you. The cost is usually around $90 a day all inclusive.
Tom
Hi
i’m wanting to ride here in August. Do you know if it’s possible to rent of road bike in Cao Bang? If not do you know if it’s possible to rent a bike in Hanoi and put it on a bus up to Cao Bang? I’m wanting to do the full North East loop and don’t fancy the extra drive from Hanoi to Cao Bang. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
David
Hi David,
Yes, you should be able to rent motorbikes in Cao Bang. Try asking at the budget hotels in the city.
I hope this helps,
Tom
I rode up from Cao Bang yesterday, tons of outlets to rent from in Cao Bang. Route referenced above was in great condition (9/10). Read the section from the NE loop post and take your sweet time riding up, literally feels like riding through a dream.
Stop for lunch at Quan 2000 in Trùng Khánh, if you’re nice the owner will give you a back massage after your meal which hit the spot after 4 straight days of riding.
Safe travels.
Hi Danny,
Thanks for the information. Good to hear you enjoyed the ride – I agree, it’s a wonderful part of the country.
Tom
Hey!
There’s a new and very nice homestay near Ban Gioc, it’s located in a small village on the way to the Nguom Ngao Cave. It’s called Khuõi Ky Homestay. I paid 100 for the night plus 75 for dinner and breakfast. They even put on their traditional clothes and performed some songs for us!
Hi Luisa,
Thanks so much for the update – sounds like an interesting accommodation option.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thanks for another excellent post. I would love to visit Ban Gioc by motorbike but unfurtunately don’t have enough time to do the whole northeast loop. Do you think it would be reasonable to get the bus to Cao Bang from Hanoi, stay in Cao Bang 1 night, drive to Ban Gioc the next day and spend the night there and then drive back to Cao Bang the next day in time to get the overnight bus back to Hanoi at 18:30. I know you can do it by day trip in a van but a day seems a bit short considering photo stops on the bike and spending time at the falls. Thanks,
Sophie
Hi Sophie,
Yes, you can do that – just make sure you leave at a decent time in the morning on the days that you are riding.
I hope you enjoy it,
Tom
Great thanks!
Hey Tom,
Thanks for another great post. I saw that you went camping in this area :). I have all my camping gear with me and am wondering if you suggest any spots near the waterfalls? Would be great!
Hi Jeff,
Try to cross the river before reaching the waterfall, there’s some nice pasture land there where I camped. Remember to be as discreet as possible.
Hope you enjoy it,
Tom
Just been reading up and Looking to Leaver Tuyen Quang in a couple of days, to head to Hai Giang then across towards Meo Vac,then turning towards Cao bang, as ive done the northern loop,i wa sthink to stop off in Ba Be first and stay there so i dont back track what, are your thoughts going this way and also i see the weather report says a few days of rain ,do you think these reports to be very accurate or are they just hit and miss,love your Bloggs Rick
Hi Rick,
I think the weather’s generally pretty unpredictable in those mountainous regions. The problem is that heavy rains can cause landslides which can close roads for hours, or even days, and even once they’re cleared they can be very muddy and difficult to ride. Personally, I’d go for it anyway; just ride carefully.
Going southeast from Meo Vac to Ba Be you can follow QL34 then turn south on DT212 – that’s a scenic road.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I’m going to post this on my FB page, it’s so great and looks so beautiful. Thanks for this great blog and sharing.
Dany
https://www.facebook.com/danyelleekelly/
Hi Dany,
Thanks, I’m glad you like it. I hope you’ll get a chance to see the falls yourself sometime.
Tom
Im a photographer who really look forward to visit this water fall. I had this idea to visit this after seen a photograph(bird view) taken by national geographic. Sadly got to know that it was taken from china side. I really need to take the same photograph. Please tell me is there any option for me to go to china side and take the photo without china visa (its bit hard to get china visa for Srilamkan). Or is there any place to have a birds eye view from forward from Vietnam side. Please help me.
Image URL
https://www.google.com/search?q=ban+gioc+waterfall&client=ms-android-kt-kr&prmd=mivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiU0MrDnazNAhUBpI8KHatPAWkQ_AUICCgC&biw=360&bih=559&dpr=3#imgrc=MUcBUF9iutbUoM%3A
Hi Mili,
Some people say that you can get across to the Chinese side, but I really wouldn’t risk it without a visa, and also because this is not an official border crossing.
The falls are very beautiful from the Vietnamese side anyway and there are lots of different angles from which to photograph it: from the main entrance there is a good panorama of the entire falls; from the boats you can get a good view from below the falls; and from the path leading up above the falls (which I have described in this article) there are good aerial views down over the waterfall.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Xin chào, Tom!
Just letting you know that there is a nice ngà nghỉ (Nhà Nghỉ Kiều Thanh Nguyệt, ĐT: 0969 661 992, 0978 596 415) 3 km from Ban Gioc waterfalls which is run by a really nice woman for 200,000 VND a night. Rooms are clean and cosy and the gate is locked at night so motorbikes are safely parked inside. It is on the road towards Đông Ngươm Ngao.
Dich Van 2 Hotel was slightly more expensive and the rooms looked dilapidated and grubby for the price quoted.
Hope that helps other “phươt” and travellers making their way around the northeast who would like a quiet, little neighbourhood to stay at close to Ban Gioc. 🙂
Cheers,
Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for the update! That’s a great little bit off info for anyone travelling to Ban Gioc and wanting to stay the night.
Enjoy the rest of your road trip! 🙂
Tom
Thanks for the hotel recommendation, Caroline! We’re here now and it’s great. I think we’re paying 250,000 vnd for 2 people. The Saigon tourist resort is complete, but rooms are 1.2 million dong.
It took us 6 hours to get to the waterfall from Cao Bang going the longer way around Tom’s lollipop loop. Road conditions are poor for much of the drive. Sections have large piles of rock covering most of the road. Other sections are super muddy and torn up.
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for sharing your experience of the area. Great to hear the hotel is good. Shame about the condition of the roads, but I hope the beautiful scenery made it worthwhile.
Enjoy the rest of your trip,
Tom
Hi Tom.
I have plan going to Ban gioc waterfall on first week of May 2016. Its a good time to see the view
n how about the safety because we will traveling with my sister n nephew ( 3 women).
we are family from Indonesia. n can you tell me which way better travel from Hanoi or nanning .China
n where we can find travel agent going to the area
Thanks very much for informations in your blog
Hi Sally,
Yes, I think May is a good time to see the waterfall.
You should be very careful if you attempt to climb the path next to the waterfall which goes to the top of the falls, because it is very steep and can get very slippery.
From Hanoi you can take a bus to Cao Bang City. From Cao Bang you can either arrange a taxi to the waterfall or organize transport through your hotel. I don’t know about travel information from the Chinese side. If you want to arrange a tour to Ban Gioc Waterfall from Hanoi you can ask about it at the reception of your hotel in Hanoi.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I am currently considering to spend some time in the north coming May. My first plan was to do the Ha Giang Loop for 5 days, and then head to Ba Be lake for some relaxation time. Seeing the pictures I really would like to visit the falls as well now. Initially I thought spending 9 full days there (excluding ravelling to and from Hanoi), but might add 1 or 2 days. Would this be sufficient to explore the area, with some time to sit back, relaxing, reading a book and enjoying the atmosphere?
I want to do it by bike. Initially I though I would it riding pillion (as I did in Vietnam a few times already). But now I would be tempted to ride on my own. I have no licence, and rode a motorbike a few times (done the Thakhke Loop and Bolaven Plateau lop in Laos) and would take a few lessons back home (or even doing a licence beforehand). Do you think it is safe to do so?
Also, how is the weather in My? Dry? I know I will miss the harvest time of the rice fields, but cannot travel any other time this year.
Sorry for all the questions.
BTW – I love your website. It really is inspiring.
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
9 days is plenty of time to explore the area, but obviously the more time you have the better it will be.
I think it’s a good idea to ride by yourself on a bike – it sounds like you have enough experience. Just take it easy because the roads in that area are very mountainous.
The weather in May should be pretty good – warm and dry with some rain. There should already be a lot of colours in the fields by that time of year.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Thanks Tom,
the more I read the more I really want to visit and spend as much time there as possible.
I assume you travelled alone on your bike. So when you went for a little walk, what did you do with your bag? I think you cannot just leave it on the bike, right?
Also, one logistical issue is if I rent a bike in Ha Gaing I need to return it there. I would actually prefer to stop at Ba Be lake, and not returning to Ha Giang. Do you think the woner would send someone to pick you up for a fee? or is that just not possible ,and I would need either ride pillion or bite the bullet and ride back to Ha Giang?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a plan formed in my head.
Thanks again,
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
Yes, that’s right, if you rent a bike from Ha Giang then you would probably have to return it to Ha Giang yourself. You can still ride the Ha Giang Extreme North Loop and on to Ba Be and then loop back to Ha Giang on the lower route (Road 34) which is more direct.
Yes, when you stop for a walk or a swim etc then you’ll need to take your stuff with you – although you only really need to take your valuable things with you which you’ll probably be carrying in a small backpack on the front of your bike, so it’s not really that inconvenient. You’ll work out a system after a couple of days on the bike – everyone has their own way.
Tom
Hey Tom
Do you know if it is possible to visit the chinese part of the falls as well? And from which side do you get the best overview, like the one on this picture
http://halong-sapatourbooking.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ban-gioc.jpg
Thanks for the good info!
Hi Marco,
That image is taken from the Chinese side. You can view the waterfall from the Chinese side, but you will have to enter China at one of the border gates in Vietnam – the nearest is Dong Dang near Lang Son to the south of Ban Gioc Falls. Note that Chinese visas must be arranged in advance.
Tom
I absolutely loved that waterfall and in general the countryside around Cao Bang in general – absolutely amazing limestone scenery!
But I still think that the Nguo Ngao cave you mentioned above represented the climax for me personally – I even liked it better than the overcrowded Phong Nha caves. Absolutely mindblowing!
The only negative aspect of my daytrip back then was the to ride back to Cao Bang City – in complete darkness and without working lights on my Honda Win. 😀 You have to be really careful with water buffaloes and other dark obstacles in the night…
Hi Muri,
Yes, I like the caves too. Combining them with the falls is a great day trip.
Tom
Hi Tom,
at what point can I find bamboo water wheel?
Thanks for posting this blog.
Zdenek
Hi Zdenek,
There are several bamboo water wheels along the Quay Son River between Trung Khanh and Ban Gioc Waterfall. I’ve written about the route in more detail in my guide to the Northeast Loop here.
I hope you find them.
Tom
Hey Tom!
congratulations on a most excellent blog. I sincerely appreciate your efforts to educate those of us that would otherwise never find some of these gems you have posted. My trip to Ban Gioc waterfall would happen around mid-November. Is there still good flow in the waterfall in mid November? Are the colors still high in the area and would this trip be your top recommendation for N.E. Vietnam for that time of year? Lastly, is there anywhere near the falls at a homestay perhaps to rent a motor bike for touring the area? If not, what would be the last place on the way to the falls to rent a motorbike? Thanks for your guidance Tom.
Marc
Hi Marc,
I would think November is probably still OK for weather and water flow at Ban Gioc Falls. However, if you’re travelling toward the end of November you should be prepared for some fairly chilly temperatures.
There’s still very little infrastructure around the falls, so finding a motorbike to rent in the immediate vicinity might be a bit difficult. Most people choose to rent their motorbike from Cao Bang, 80km to the west. It’s a beautiful ride from Cao Bang to the falls and back. If you leave early in the morning then you can do it in one day, if not then just stay the night somewhere, such as Quang Uyen. You can read more about Cao Bang and that area in my guide to the Northeast Loop.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Thanks a lot for your info about this area!
You’re welcome 🙂
Tom
Hi Tom,
My wife and I are in Vietnam for one month and Ban Gioc is on our list. We have had a hard time organizing out plans and are starting to wonder if it is worth it. We like going off the beaten path and I think the falls look stunning. We have the time but are wondering if it is worth it? What is the water flow like at the end of April? How would a 2-night trip work. Train to Cao Bang, stay there one night, the falls on day 2, and then stay one more night, return to Hanoi the next day. Does this sound reasonable. What type of lodging and or transportation should be arranged before hand. Thanks for the help!
Josiah
Hi Josiah,
Personally, I think the falls and the area in general are worth a trip. But it’s quite a distance for such a short trip. I would recommend spending an extra 2 nights and combining the falls with a trip to Ba Be Lake either on the way to or from the falls. I’ve written extensively about that whole area in this article about the Northeast.
I would imagine that the flow should be enough to render the falls an impressive sight. However, I would check with a reputable travel agent that’s based in the north of Vietnam for more info – try emailing Flamingo Travel and asking them about the flow in April.
Cao Bang is not connected by train. Buses (including night buses) leave Hanoi for Cao Bang daily. From Cao Bang it should be easy to arrange private transport to the falls through your hotel. Or you could rent a motorbike and drive there.
There’s plenty of accommodation in Cao Bang. You can do the falls as a day trip from Cao Bang if you leave early in the morning. Travel time from Cao Bang to the falls is about 2 hours but the scenery is marvellous so you might want to take it slow.
There are a handful of local nhà nghỉ (guesthouses) around the falls, including some in Khanh and Quang Uyen. Again there’s more about that in the Northeast article.
I hope you have a great trip.
Tom
I am looking to go to ba be lake, ban gioc waterfal, and the surrounding cao bang province for several days at the end of my time here in Vietnam. I may not have a lot of time (3-5 days). I was wondering what you think the minimal amount of time spent here should be, and how you think you should spend those days (how many days at each place)? Thanks!
Abby
Hi Abby,
Around 4 days is probably sufficient. Cao Bang City is a good base from which to visit the surrounding countryside. A day trip to Ban Gioc Waterfall is good. And a couple of days spent exploring Ba Be Lakes on foot, bike, boat – whatever takes your fancy. Staying in a homestay there is nice. So 2 days Ba Be Lakes, 1 day Cao Bang City, 1 day Ban Gioc Waterfall, plus a ‘lost day’ – 4-5 days should be fine.
Tom
Dear Tom, I’m currently planning my trip (which is in 6 days) according to places you describe and recommend. Your webside is the best I saw to help travellers get most of their trips away from the beaten paths. Thank very much!
I have and urgent question for you: Does it make sense to visit the waterfall in the end of December – beginning of January as the wet season is over and there is a risk that I would find the waterfall with little water and far not as picturesque as on your pictures?
Hi Svetlana,
Apologies for the late reply.
I think the water flow at Ban Gioc Waterfall in December will be significantly less than in my photos, which were taken in early October. However, there’s still plenty of rain around in that region during the winter months, so I think the falls would still look good enough to justify a visit. But, it’s worth remembering that the weather can be rather cold and grey at that time of year, and the harvest colours will be long gone. Perhaps it’s better to save Ban Gioc Waterfall for another trip during the warmer, brighter summer/autumn months.
Have a great trip,
Tom
Tom, thanks for posting this blog. I travelled to Ban Gioc fall in 1999 a long time ago but it is amazing to see the fall is still very much under develop (which is a good thing). I did also swim in the river and that was a great memory.
Thanks, Nguyen. Yes, I like that it has not been developed too much yet. I hope that it retains its magnificence, even after the resorts are built!
Tom
Another great in-depth travelogue – you obviously had more time than when I visited earlier in the year on a whistle-stop tour of Cao Bang and Ha Giang provinces.
The impression I got was that all the photogenic parts of the waterfall are actually in China; Vietnam having just some very unspectacular falls up which you climbed – perhaps I’m wrong?
The main thing that struck me was how run down the whole place was; having walked down the gravel path, the rest of the route was just a muddy track which led to two rickety bridges which, even by Vietnamese standards of ‘elf and safety, were dangerous. A few million Dong spent on maintenance would make all the difference! In sharp contrast was the millions of Dollars being spent on the tourist resort being carved out of the nearby hillside. Will all the tourists be obliged to use the same unsafe bridges?
Vietnam is surely a land full of contrasts but even more fascinating for that fact.
Hi Alan,
The falls seemed pretty photogenic to me – no matter what side of the border you view them from. If anything I would say that Vietnam has more of the waterfall than China because it has half of the main falls plus the other smaller falls, which while not on such a grand scale, are very pretty indeed.
As regards the condition of the site, I was relieved to see that litter had been kept to a minimum, despite groups of Vietnamese picnickers, which I’m sorry to say is usually a catalyst for trash. Personally, I like the rickety bridges and muddy paths, it makes the whole experience all the more rustic and ‘real’. One day the path to the falls will be paved, there will be steps up to the higher cascades, the resort will be finished, and with this ease of access this natural site will inevitably lose some of its magic. Of course it’s great that more people will be able to see it, and health and safety will be enforced, but I’m glad I got to see Ban Gioc waterfall before the infrastructure for mass tourism is put in place. The ‘run-down’ look holds a certain charm for me.
Tom
Thanks Tom for taking me to this part of Viet Nam where I only heard of. My mother was born in Cao Bang many moons ago before move to the South in 1954. We never have a chance to make a homage trip. I can only hope to make a trip there one day.
I enjoy your nice photos and history lesson.
Happy travel!!!
Thanks, Tuc.
Cao Bang Province is one of my favourite areas in Vietnam. I hope you get the chance to pay a visit to your mother’s birthplace some time soon.
Tom
Tom I sure am glad to have found this. Your pictures are so inspiring that it makes me want to return which I swore to never do. I lost many good friends at Vung Ro Bay. Why should I blame a country for a time that was not only confusing for them but for us also. You are a great photographer.
Thank you again for this site.
Jim Ellis
Major retired Army.
Thanks, Jim.
I hope you do decide to return to Vietnam one day and that your experience will be a happy one this time.
Tom