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Questions, updates and trip reports are all welcome. However, please keep comments polite and on-topic. See commenting etiquette for details.

  1. Sam Miller says:
    June 1, 2025 at 5:55 AM

    Hi Tom , Met you at the motorbike mechanic about a month ago. Your blog is fantastic! I’m in Saigon today and tomorrow if you want to grab a beer or a bite to eat.
    Sam

    1. Tom says:
      June 1, 2025 at 6:14 AM

      Hi Sam,

      Thanks for the kind words. Can you remind my where abouts it was in Vietnam that we met at the motorbike mechanic?

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Sam Miller says:
        June 1, 2025 at 9:00 AM

        I was just wandering south of town. I’m the guy that lived in Bali and moving to Hoi An . Was headed to Florida to go on a sailing trip. Of any of that rings a bell. 😀

        1. Tom says:
          June 2, 2025 at 4:19 AM

          Hi Sam,

          Wandering south of which town? Saigon?

          I’m trying to remember. Did I meet you outside the big bus station?

          Tom

          1. Sam Miller says:
            June 3, 2025 at 1:15 AM

            When I checked my Maps timeline, yes it looks like we were close to the Western Bus Station in Saigon. Flying to Da Nang today. Should be back in Saigon in a few weeks. I’ll touch base or if you get up to Hoi An home a shout. Have a buddy bringing his motorcycle group from Indonesia in a few weeks they are going to start in Saigon. Of you know of any guide services or want a new story for your blog. Thanks! Sam

            1. Tom says:
              June 3, 2025 at 4:24 AM

              Hi Sam,

              Yeh, that sounds about right.

              I’m travelling in and out of Saigon a lot these days. I’ll let you know when I’m passing through Hoi An/Da Nang.

              Best,

              Tom

  2. Nic says:
    April 6, 2025 at 9:31 PM

    Hi there, We are planning a bike packing trip at the end of April from Hanoi to HCMC. Are the motorcycle routes suitable for bike packing. We would want, where possible, to stay away from super busy traffic. Ideally, I would map our routes on Garmin and download them for navigation. We will be self-guiding, however most of the guided tours use an overnight train from Hanoi to Hue…. do you think there is a reason for that? Is there a safe road to use for Bike Packing?

    Look forward to your expertise. Kind regards, Nic from NZ.

    1. Tom says:
      April 7, 2025 at 5:41 AM

      Hi Nic,

      Yes, all my motorbike routes are fine for bike packing. My routes try to stay on decent paved roads and avoid busy main highways as much as possible (although sometimes there’s no choice but to use big roads for a short distance).

      The reason guided tours often skip the section between Hanoi and Hue is because they think there’s no good riding or scenery on that section. However, that is totally inaccurate. For example, Phong Nha has some excellent riding, and also the Limestone Loops, and also Nghe An Province here, here, and here.

      April/May is usually a good time of year for a north-south road trip. Read more about weather here.

      There are dozens of self-guided motorbike routes on my website here. I suggest you browse through my Motorbike Guides archive to get a better idea of what’s available and then email me if you have any more specific questions.

      I also have a library of Offline Guide & Map packages that you can browse on this page. These include instructions about how to follow my maps on your phone at all times, even without an internet connection. However, you should note that turn-by-turn navigation is not available unless you input every section on the route manually. But navigation should not be a problem because you can see your GPS location on the route at all times.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Nic says:
        April 8, 2025 at 4:36 AM

        This info is awesome. There’s a lot here to look into. Thank you so much!!!

  3. Paul Trickey says:
    March 26, 2025 at 4:30 AM

    Hi Tom, planning for mid September. Do the loop, branch off to Bao Lac then the DT204 around to Cao Bang ( i think thats your china border route). What is the best way to get back to the Ha Chiang loop from Cao Bang ( the QL34 back to Bao Lac, then Bao Lac back to Meo Vac?).
    Thankyou, just trying to work out which map pack I buy from you.
    regards Paul from Tasmania

    1. Tom says:
      March 26, 2025 at 11:19 AM

      Hi Paul,

      Yes, the China Border Crawl route in my Northeast Loops guide includes DT204 along the Chinese border.

      Then, to get back from Cao Bang to Ha Giang, you can either take QL34 to Bao Lac and then QL4C to Meo Vac. Or you can take QL34 to Bao Lac and then take DT217 to Meo Vac, but some of DT217 is off-road, so you would need an appropriate bike. Both these routes (Bao Lac to Meo Vac) are described in Section 6b of the Ha Giang Loop guide.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Paul says:
        March 26, 2025 at 11:43 AM

        Thanks Tom, I have heard that the police are more vigilant on Australian IDP’s since January, is this correct. Is it less risky in Cao Bang area?

        1. Tom says:
          March 26, 2025 at 2:12 PM

          Hi Paul,

          There will be fewer traffic police in Cao Bang compared to Ha Giang. Because the Ha Giang Loop is so popular now, there is a much bigger police presence there.

          For license information, it’s a good idea to contact the rental companies.

          Best,

          Tom

  4. Rhollo says:
    March 26, 2025 at 4:00 AM

    Hey,

    Thanks for writing up all the guides, they’re great and very helpful.

    I was wondering if you know how long they store a bike after sending it on the train? Or about storage options at the train station? I’m sending a bike, then flying out for a week so not sure if It’ll be there to pick up before flying or if I can store it at the station.

    Thanks.

    1. Tom says:
      March 26, 2025 at 11:05 AM

      Hi Rhollo,

      Last time I checked, the station charged 10,000vnđ per day. But you should check at the station in-person to make sure.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Rhollo says:
        April 12, 2025 at 9:38 AM

        Thanks for your reply.

        To update for anyone reading in the future. I asked at the station through google translate and my very limited Vietnamese so there was some confusion, but a friendly young guy working there said you could leave the motorbike for as long as needed. When I asked him about a fee he didn’t really know and said maybe 10k when I pushed him asking if there was a daily storage fee.

        I went back 2 weeks later to pick up the motorbike and was just charged a 30k unloading fee, nothing for storage. They were busy so maybe didn’t look into it too deeply but it was all done quickly and easily, just looked at the receipt and didn’t require any other document checks. Same for a bicycle, but 10k unloading fee. This was at Saigon station.

        1. Tom says:
          April 13, 2025 at 7:03 AM

          Hi Rhollo,

          Thanks. Glad it was OK to leave your bike there. But, yes, in general it will cost about 10,000vnd per day to leave a bike at the station.

          Best,

          Tom

  5. Houlle benoit says:
    March 23, 2025 at 6:40 AM

    Hello,
    We have a motorbike trip from tomorow and we would like to do hanoi to Ba be lake , Do you have any recommandation for the way between?

    i’m leaving in vietnam and i just discuter your website, i will check a bit more but i need to know some information before buying your offline maps. Can we have some recommandation between each destination when i buy it? Like my question for exemple from hanoi to ba be lake

    Thank you so much for your answer

    Benoit

    1. Tom says:
      March 23, 2025 at 9:24 AM

      Hi Benoit,

      To get from Hanoi to Ba Be, I would personally suggest taking the most direct route via road QL3 and then turning off onto either DT258 or QL279. It’s quite busy and boring until you get to Thai Nguyen, but after that it’s really nice. It’s a long ride, so you will need most of the day to do it. (Remember that motorbike can’t use the expressways – CT or ĐCT roads.)

      For more information about the offline guides & maps, please go to the Shop Homepage, where you can browse all the available guides & maps, buy any of them that you like, and also find out more about them by clicking the Learn More button.

      For other questions, you can email me (vietnamcoracle@gmail.com) and I’ll try to reply when I can, but I can’t guarantee I will be able to answer all your specific questions.

      Best,

      Tom

  6. Grace says:
    February 9, 2025 at 12:54 PM

    Hi Tom,

    I stumbled upon your page while researching for our family road trip of 5 pax (3 kids under 16 yrs). Thinking of a 2 sleeper (hubby and son) and 4 sleeper, with the idea of booking the entire 4 sleeper for the 3 of us (me and 2 gals).

    I read your posts to others that the staff may not allowed, but if we’re 3 pax in a 4 sleeper wld they still want to put someone in with us?

    Also a silly question, are the sleeper cabin doors lockable and if we do really need to share a sleeper with other passengers, is the booking system “smart” enough to assign another female passenger with us?

    Thanks,
    Anxious mum

    1. Tom says:
      February 11, 2025 at 3:29 AM

      Hi Grace,

      You can book a 4 sleeper for 3 people, but ultimately if the train is busy the staff may fill the empty bed with another passenger. However, even if that were to happen, the gender of the passenger shouldn’t be a concern – Vietnamese are generally extremely courteous, respectful and polite to travellers, especially families.

      Yes, compartment doors can be locked, but again if your concern is safety, Vietnam is a much safer country in which to travel than many Western nations and that especially applies to people travelling with children.

      When you book your train tickets on this page, you can select the beds you want on a train carriage map, so you can try to make sure all 5 of you are in neighbouring compartments.

      Best,

      Tom

  7. Alannah says:
    January 13, 2025 at 12:45 PM

    Hi Tom,
    No language barrier. I think it is the lack of money under table. I am Vietnamese by birth, loool, but came back two months ago. Thanks for tip. Most VN understand my Vietnamese, except this station worker. I have seen balou before. Except cheaper at station cause no foreign currency charges and I have cash. I might have seen you somewhere before in VN. Looool.

    Your website may be useful later. I am a hiker so I check more route.

    All the best.

  8. Alannah says:
    January 12, 2025 at 1:02 PM

    I did not know my wuestions would be seen by bothers. Ironically, tried yo your answrrs eithout going into my email. Someone akready tried to hack it.

    It is good to know, cause I really dont want others to know my plans.

    It is funny train were facing left and now right on the web page, which was very hard to find. Even the English speaking Vietnamese don’t know the website for train tickets in Vietnam. I found it eventually. They keep showing me the wrong web page, but thought it was right.

    Many thanks

    So number 1 and 2 seats are at the back of that coach. They were being difficult at Nha Trang station and cannot figure it out the seating either, and they are Vietnamese and work for the train company. It is rather hilarious. Basically, she said I can choose the number, but I may still be going backwards. It was pot luck. Not much better than England. Pity not like Australian seats you can flip them over to face the right way.

    Thanks for your help.

    1. Tom says:
      January 13, 2025 at 1:54 AM

      Hi Alannah,

      I recommend booking your train ticket online, then you can easily see which direction the train is going and select your seat accordingly, and you don’t have to deal with the language barrier either.

      Best,

      Tom

  9. Alannah says:
    January 11, 2025 at 11:32 PM

    Hi Tom, I am just wondering how do I avoid travelling backward on the trains and which side is the best for views? I am travelling from Nha Trang to Saigon.

    Many thanks.

    1. Tom says:
      January 12, 2025 at 3:39 AM

      Hi Alannah,

      When you make a booking online, you can select your seat from a seat map so you can make sure you select a seat that faces the direction the train is travelling in.

      From Nha Trang to Saigon, if you sit on the left, you will be closer to the coast; if you sit on the right, you will be closer to the mountains. Both are OK for views.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Alannah says:
        January 12, 2025 at 4:12 AM

        From the map it is hard to tell which way is forward and which is backward. But I go chronogical.

        1. Tom says:
          January 12, 2025 at 4:19 AM

          Hi Alannah,

          When you book a train online, you will see the carriages with a train engine pointing in one direction just above the seat map – that’s how you can tell which way is forward.

          Best,

          Tom

  10. Peter says:
    January 5, 2025 at 11:57 AM

    Hi Tom / Luke
    Firstly just to let you know that Voilà Chinatown is no more. Staying in Cholon we thought it would be ideal for a couple of Jan 1 sundowners. But no! We should have checked – it’s already been noted as closed on Google.So we went to Hung Hoa instead. It was great , a bit haphazard – they’d systematically run out of everything we tried to order!!! Limes, tonic, food!!! But not to worry it was fun and welcoming.
    Couple of questions. I seem to remember in one of your articles on south/east beaches something about a fishing town with lots of authentic charm and food stalls with words to the effect “now that the new road has been finished and the traffic no longer goes through the centre “ . Is that enough info for you to be able to tell me where this place might be? I have been unable to find it again.
    Currently in Bao Loc doing a variation on your loop out of Phan Thiet, then heading to coastal areas between Cam Rahn and Phan Rang and Ça Na. Would you have any idea where we should head to be sure of being able to rent scooters/ m/cycles? I’ve read all your articles on the area it looks fantastic,but we rent as we go. Although it’s obvious we can find rentals in Dalat or N’a Trang for example. It’s more complicated in the smaller places. Any help would be appreciated.
    PS keep up the fantastic work.
    All the best
    Peter

    1. Tom says:
      January 7, 2025 at 4:38 AM

      Hi Peter,

      That’s interesting: I just went to Voila Bar yesterday too. It was closed, but we’re not 100% certain yet if it’s a permanent closure or not.

      The beach you’re referring to might be Dai Lanh.

      You’d be able to rent motorbikes in places like Phan Rang, Vinh Hy, maybe also Cam Lap Promontory – these are all places along that stretch of coast: Dragons Graveyard, Nui Chua, Sand Dune Highway.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Peter says:
        January 16, 2025 at 1:48 PM

        Thanks for your swift reply and apologies for not acknowledging before. Dai Lanh was definitely the beach that I was looking for. And it was high on my list of priorities along with everything from Tuy Hoa to Quy Nhon but the weather was not on our side, so after a couple of days at Cam Lap we’ve moved on. We were able to rent scooters through the Hai Phat hotel at Cam Ranh . We texted ahead and they were ready when we arrived. A cheap clean $10 a night highly recommend hotel.
        Also worth a visit if you should be stuck in Cam Ranh of a night is Nha Hang Nho 1984 restaurant. It looks like it’s been lifted out of Hoi An. A complete and complex menu of very interesting regional specialities.
        Keep up the good work. A trip to Vietnam wouldn’t be the same without the Coracle !
        Rgds Peter

        1. Tom says:
          January 17, 2025 at 2:01 AM

          Hi Peter,

          Sorry to hear about the weather – it can be like that around there at that time of year, and it should get much better and reliably dry and sunny from March.

          Thanks for the recommendations, too

          Best,

          Tom

  11. Rakhal says:
    November 28, 2024 at 6:03 PM

    Hi Tom,
    What an incredible resource this is!! I will be in Vietnam in March. According to your weather map it looks like South of Nha Trang is where I want to spend my time. Which route/routes in this area have the least amount of car/truck traffic? Lazy, quiet country roads is what I’m looking for. Thanks for this amazing and inspiring website.
    Rakhal

    1. Tom says:
      November 29, 2024 at 9:50 AM

      Hi Rakhal,

      March is quite a good time of year throughout Vietnam, but yes that’s right, the region most likely to have dry, sunny (and hot) weather is the south.

      There are many rides to choose from. Take a look through my Central Highlands Motorbike Routes and Southern Motorbike Routes to get some ideas. After that, let me know if you have any specific questions.

      Best,

      Tom

  12. Louis says:
    September 23, 2024 at 12:29 PM

    Hi Tom,

    Just wondering if you know of any ways I can help with the situation on the ground due to the typhoon?

    Any reputable charities to donate to, or organisations to volunteer with?

    Cheers
    Louis

    1. Tom says:
      September 23, 2024 at 1:14 PM

      Hi Louis,

      Yes, you can donate via your banking app to support the government aid post-Yagi. This page has several options.

      Best,

      Tom

  13. Wendy says:
    September 15, 2024 at 3:00 AM

    Hi Tom,
    We are all geared to go, due to arrive in Hanoi on 25th for a month long trip, exiting out of Ho Chi Minh. I’m wondering if I should change directions and start in the south now, given the effects of the typhoon up north. We were planning to ride in the mountains north west of Hanoi but that looks impossible now. Very sad to see the devestation and loss of life. Obviously, we can ride in other locations around the country. Appreciate your thoughts???

    1. Tom says:
      September 15, 2024 at 7:07 AM

      Hi Wendy,

      September/October is the ‘typhoon’ season, so it wouldn’t really make much difference if you changed the north to the end of your trip instead on the beginning. A lot of it is down to luck: the weather doesn’t follow a timetable: you could get lucky and be in the north during lovely dry days in Sept/Oct or you could get unlucky and be in the north for a typhoon which usually causes bad weather for a few days.

      In terms of any travel disruption left over from typhoon Yagi, the majority of it should be cleared by the end of the month, if not already. However, if there’s another typhoon, then of course that could cause more disruption.

      Best,

      Tom

  14. Damian says:
    July 19, 2024 at 1:17 AM

    Hi Tom,

    What type of bike is good for the Ha Giang loop? Would the Honda Blade semi auto be okay or would it be better to ride the XR 150? Also, how long would I need to ride out of Hanoi to do the loop and then back to Hanoi?

    Damian

    1. Tom says:
      July 19, 2024 at 7:38 AM

      Hi Damian,

      A Honda Blade is fine as long as it’s in good condition and you’re not planning to go off-road. An XR 150 is also good, especially if you’re planning any offroad trails or explorations away from the main Ha Giang Loop.

      Best,

      Tom

      1. Damian says:
        July 19, 2024 at 2:02 PM

        Thanks Tom!

        How many days would you recommend if I left from Hanoi to do the loop, and the returned to Hanoi?

        Damian

        1. Tom says:
          July 19, 2024 at 2:19 PM

          Hi Damian,

          Add a day or two for the ride from/to Hanoi/Ha Giang.

          For duration for the loop, check the Overview & Details and About This Loop sections of the Ha Giang Loop Guide.

          Best,

          Tom

          1. Damian says:
            July 19, 2024 at 2:27 PM

            Thanks Tom, I appreciate the feedback.

            Regards,
            Damian

            1. Damian says:
              August 27, 2024 at 12:36 PM

              Hi Tom,

              How is the weather at the end of November from Hanoi to Danag along the Ho Chi Minh Road?

              Damian

              1. Tom says:
                August 27, 2024 at 1:17 PM

                Hi Damian,

                For details about weather conditions on the Ho Chi Minh Road please see the About This Route section of my Ho Chi Minh Road Guide and scroll down to ‘Weather & Time of Year. Also, for more details about weather conditions in Vietnam at different times of year, please see my Weather Guide.

                Best,

                Tom

                1. Damian says:
                  August 27, 2024 at 2:15 PM

                  Thanks Tom! Appreciate it.

                  Damian