First published April 2025 | Words by Joshua Zukas
Joshua is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. A freelancer whose body of work focuses primarily on travel & architecture, Joshua covers Vietnam regularly for Lonely Planet, Michelin Guide, Insider, Ink Global & many of Asia’s top inflight magazines. He also writes intermittently for publications such as The Economist, Wallpaper & Interior Design Magazine. He holds an MSc in sustainable tourism….read more about Joshua
Đoài Tour & Homestay is set within a cluster of tasteful contemporary buildings nestled in Đường Lâm, which tour guides might tell you is the oldest village in Northern Vietnam (whatever that means). The property, designed by Hanoi architect Khuất Văn Thắng and consisting of just a handful of rooms, is imbued with boutique vibes that are hard to come by outside of Vietnam’s major tourist hotspots. Note that although the staff are especially hospitable, Đoài is not a homestay; it’s a small-scale hotel with an attached café, tour desk and activities. Rates, though more expensive than the village’s actual homestays, are reasonable considering the thought that has gone into the property, and it’s worth booking in advance, especially if overnighting in Đường Lâm on Friday or Saturday. Đoài Tour and Homestay is part of the broader Đoài initiative, a project that seeks to showcase the history and heritage of Đường Lâm through exhibitions, performances, activities and cuisine. [BOOK HERE]
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REVIEW: ĐOÀI HOMESTAY
Address: 14 Đường Lâm Village, Sơn Tây, Hanoi, Vietnam [MAP]
Average Rates: $30-$50/night
CONTENTS:
MAP:
Đoài Homestay | Đường Lâm Village
The Location: Đoài sits almost in the centre of Đường Lâm, just a few minutes’ walk from the central Đình Mông Phụ (Mông Phụ Communal House), which dates back to the 17th century. Đoài’s location would be perfect were it not for the fact that you can’t drive in and out of Đường Lâm during the day. This means that if coming by motorbike, you’ll need to park outside the village, walk to Đoài and possibly return later to collect your bike and park it at the property. Much like Hội An (but with far fewer tourists), Đường Lâm is walkable, and the village’s various cafes and restaurants aren’t more than five minutes away by foot.
Grounds & Layout: The accommodation is spread between two plots not more than 50m from one another on Đường Lâm Street. The eastern plot, the first you come to if arriving in Đường Lâm through the ancient village gate (as most do), holds a wooden house on stilts with a handful of the cheaper rooms, a garden café and a shadow puppet theatre (see Activities). The western plot, separated from the other by the Cơm Quê Hùng Hạnh restaurant (not part of the Đoài family) holds the reception, the tour desk, a small garden and a handful of more expensive rooms arranged over two floors. Both spaces feel tight and the gardens are small, but this is in-keeping with the cosy nature of ancient Vietnamese villages, and the hotel never feels crowded, even when full.
Activities: Đoài has a wealth of activities, all of which are available to non-guests if you let them know in advance. Perhaps most appealing to those that want to get under the skin of the village are the private tours around Đường Lâm, which visit the various ancient houses, temples and the village church. Within the property, there’s a space for artistic exhibitions, a painting workshop that’s popular with families and a shadow puppet theatre. Performances at the theatre are shown on demand and cost 1,200,000VNĐ ($50) per show (not per person), but if there’s already one planned then it may be possible to join for a lower price. There’s also a gift shop selling local produce, like tea, jam and wooden handicrafts.
Rooms and Décor: There are less than a dozen rooms at Đoài Tour & Homestay spread equally between two plots. The wooden house on stilts has timber frame rooms that feel vaguely like a mountain lodge, with firm beds, limited spaces and shared bathrooms and washing facilities. The plot with the hotel reception holds the more expensive accommodation, with private outdoor bathrooms and slightly larger rooms. Overall, the rooms are interesting spaces that creatively invite plenty of natural light without sacrificing too much privacy.
Breakfast, Dining & Drinking: Breakfast is simple but tasty, much like an upmarket homestay, where you can choose, usually the night before, between instant noodles and an egg baguette. Seasonal fruit and tea are served on the side. There’s a garden café serving good Vietnamese coffees, local snacks and fresh juices throughout the day, but don’t expect a bar where you can knock back beers long into the night. Đường Lâm is not a nightlife destination, but if you’re looking to have a few drinks, there are several spots on the outskirts of the village. Included in the Đoài complex are the excellent Bếp Làng Đường Lâm restaurants, with one next to the stilt house accommodation and the other just outside of the village. To eat at either it’s best to order a few hours in advance: the roasted pork belly and tofu dishes are highly recommended.
Summary: Đoài Tour and Homestay is a welcome addition to Đường Lâm, with hospitable service, comfortable rooms and delicious northern Vietnamese food. The most visually striking aspect of the property is the design, which displays contemporary flair without looking out of place on the ancient streets. But perhaps the best thing about Đoài is that their wealth of activities provides more reason to overnight in Đường Lâm, a welcome alternative to Hạ Long Bay, Ninh Bình and other popular weekend holiday spots from Hanoi.
*To check rates & make a booking for Đoài Homestay please BOOK HERE
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Joshua has written this review because he wants to: he likes this homestay and he wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
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