First published March 2025 | Words and photos by Phương Lê
Phương Lê is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. Having lived in all three regions of Vietnam, she has a deep understanding of the country’s cultural diversity. Currently working as an independent photographer and writer, her work has been featured in various media outlets. As a photo tour guide, she provides not only photographic guidance but also meaningful connections for photography and culture enthusiasts with an authentic Vietnam.
While most of Hanoi drifts into a peaceful slumber, another side of the city awakens in the dead of night. Long Biên fruit market and Quảng Bá flower market are two iconic nocturnal hubs, bustling with activity from midnight until the break of dawn. These markets are not only vital trading centers but also cultural spaces that capture the dynamic essence of Hanoi, a city that never truly sleeps. For travelers seeking a different side of the city – one that most tourists overlook – set an early alarm or embrace a sleepless night to explore these two nighttime markets. Wandering through Long Biên and Quảng Bá markets gives travellers the opportunity to peel back the layers of Hanoi, witnessing its ceaseless rhythm and gaining insight into a city that is in a constant state of evolution while remaining deeply rooted in tradition. Having visited these markets many times, I enjoy their vibrant, energetic and chaotic atmosphere. For visitors and photographers, they are great places to observe candid moments of local life, and, for Hanoi residents, they provide an opportunity to buy fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables at reasonable prices.
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HANOI’S SLEEPLESS MARKETS
Two After-Dark Local Markets in the Vietnamese Capital
Long Biên and Quảng Bá markets are not just economic lifelines but living snapshots of Hanoi’s unfiltered life and labour. Behind every bustling stall is a story of hard work, resilience and hope. The unsung market workers – the porters, vendors and delivery people – have been breathing life into these markets day after day for decades. Every night, no matter the weather, the routine remains the same. Trucks rumble in, and men and women of all ages haul heavy loads, moving with practiced precision and faultless choreography. Mr. Thanh, a porter at Long Biên market, reflects: “Every job has its challenges. For us, it’s the physical strength and endurance required. After a while, you get used to it, and the muscle pain fades. What keeps us going is the sense of purpose.” Given the physical demands of the job, most porters are men, but you’ll also see many women pushing carts stacked high with goods calling out, “Mạnh lên!” (‘Strengthen up!’) as they go. Most workers come from rural provinces of northern Vietnam, driven to the capital by the need to earn a living. Despite the considerable labour, the markets hum with energy and lively banter among vendors. These are places where hardship and joy intertwine. (For similar posts see Related Guides, and if you enjoy this article, please support the site)
CONTENTS:
MAP:
Hanoi’s Sleepless Markets: Long Biên & Quảng Bá
Long Biên Fruit Market:
A Tireless Pulse Beneath an Historic Bridge
Address: 189 Hồng Hà, Phúc Xá Ward, Ba Đình District [MAP] | Open: 10pm to 6am
Nestled beneath the iconic bridge of the same name, Long Biên market is one of Hanoi’s largest wholesale fruit markets. Established in 1992, this market operates nonstop from 10pm to 6am everyday, serving as a crucial hub that distributes many tons of fresh fruit to smaller markets across the city and neighboring provinces.
Located near the Old Quarter and opposite Long Biên train station, the market is a labyrinth of stalls. The largest and busiest section is dedicated to wholesale fruit, while seafood, vegetables and other essentials occupy smaller areas at the back and sides. Every night, hundreds of trucks delivering fresh fruit from northern provinces, such as Hưng Yên, Bắc Giang and Hải Dương, rush into the market. The market is at its busiest between midnight and 3am, as crates of watermelons, mangoes, jackfruit, oranges and tangerines are unloaded in a vibrant, chaotic spectacle. The market handles a massive flow of goods, with an estimated 300 tons of fruit each day.
Under the dim glow of streetlights, the air is heavy with the mingling aromas of fresh fruit and the occasional crisp midnight breeze. Beneath the giant iron arches of Long Biên bridge, the market becomes a kaleidoscope of colors and motion. As dawn breaks over the Red River, bicycles depart the market, stacked high with colourful produce, and weave through the city’s narrow streets, delivering freshness to every corner of the capital.
Quảng Bá Flower Market:
A Midnight Garden of Colours & Scents
Address: 236 Âu Cơ, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ District [MAP] | Open: 10pm to 6am
Running parallel to Long Biên market’s schedule is Quảng Bá, Hanoi’s largest wholesale flower market. It operates from 10pm to 6am, with its peak activity between 1am and 2am. Originally a spontaneous trading spot for local flower growers, it has blossomed into a vital hub for flowers from major growing areas near Hanoi like Tây Tựu, Mê Linh and Đông Anh, as well as more distant provinces, such as Hưng Yên and even as far as Dalat.
Walking through Quảng Bá at midnight is like entering a festival of colors. Bouquets of red roses, golden lilies, pristine white chrysanthemums, and radiant sunflowers fill every corner. The cool night air is perfumed with the scent of fresh flowers, creating a dream-like atmosphere.
During the Lunar New Year (Tết) and other holidays, the market bursts into an even more lively and luminous scene. Pink peach blossoms, a traditional symbol of spring in the north, flood the stalls from nearby Nhật Tân. Vendors expertly arrange their blooms, transforming each stall into a panoply of color and fragrance. “The closer it gets to Tết, the busier and more rushed things become. But because of that, the joy multiplies many times over,” says Mr. Lam, a long-time flower vendor. “I’ve been working here for over 20 years. My day begins when others are already asleep, but I find happiness in being surrounded by flowers.” Despite the bustle, there’s a serene charm to the market. Locals and tourists visit not just to buy flowers but to soak up the tranquil beauty of the city at night, a poetic side of Hanoi that often goes unnoticed.
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Phương has written this guide because she wants to: she likes these markets and she wants readers to know about them. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
