First published May 2024 | Words and photos by Luke Digweed
Luke Digweed is a staff writer for Vietnam Coracle. He has been living in Vietnam since 2011, mostly in Huế but also in Đà Nẵng & Sài Gòn. While living in Huế, he ran the Huế Grit Tour & co-organized events & small concerts between 2017-2020. His most recent ongoing project is Festivals of Vietnam which documents ceremonies, rituals & processions around the country….read more about Luke
Central Vietnamese food is arguably the best in Vietnam and Hội An is a culinary hub for the region. All of the components that make central Vietnamese food great can be found in Hội An: unique varieties of noodle, fresh herbs, crunchy toppings, myriad dipping sauces, aromatic broths and, most importantly, dishes that communicate with their surroundings and speak for the people that serve them. This guide focuses on essential Hội An dishes and other specialities of Quảng Nam Province to help travellers explore its rich food scene.
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HOI AN FOOD GUIDE
Exploring the Rich Food Scene of a Central Vietnamese Culinary Hub
Hội An’s cuisine and culinary heritage is rich, varied and justifiably famous. However, as one of Vietnam’s most popular tourist destinations, Hội An’s restaurants and street food stalls sometimes alter their dishes to suit the perceived tastes and expectations of foreign diners. This can sometimes result in muted flavours, superficial restaurant environments and a sterile customer experience. This food guide is the culmination of my numerous visits to Hội An over many years and is aimed at helping travellers get the most out of their dining experience in this culinary hub. Click any of the dishes in the contents below to find out more about them. (For similar food guides, see Related Posts.)
CONTENTS:
MAP:
Hội An Food Guide
Cao Lầu:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Cao Lầu Liên: 120 Trần Cao Vân [MAP] | 13:00-19:00 | 40,000vnđ
- Cao Lầu Không Gian Xanh: 687 Hai Bà Trưng [MAP] | 08:00-20:30 | 40,000vnđ
Hội An’s poster noodle dish, cao lầu features thick, greasy noodles complemented by barbecued xá xíu pork and fried rice croutons, served with greens, herbs, bean sprouts and a splash of broth. Cao lầu has a broad appeal – it’s a gateway dish for people new to Southeast Asian flavours, yet unique enough to excite even the most seasoned of foodies. Despite cao lầu’s popularity, surprisingly it hasn’t gained much traction outside of central Vietnam: the dish is exclusive to Quảng Nam province.
Cao lầu holds a significant place in Hội An’s culinary heritage, with roots tracing back to Japanese and Chinese traders that lived and worked here between the 15th and 19th centuries. Unlike mì quảng noodles, a staple breakfast option, cao lầu is eaten on occasion rather than regularly, possibly because it is a heavier, richer dish.
Plenty of restaurants offer cao lầu in Hội An and I don’t have a clear favourite. Cao Lầu Không Gian Xanh serves a generous portion, full of flavour, in the heart of the Old Quarter. Further out from the centre, Cao Lầu Liên provides a good bowl of cao lầu albeit in a less aesthetically-pleasing environment. Cao Lầu Liên is named after the family matriarch who had been serving cao lầu in several rented spaces around Hội An for years. Liên now puts her feet up at home while younger family members tend to the business.
Images of Cao Lầu
Mì Quảng:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Mì Quảng Ông Hai: 6A Trương Minh Lượng [MAP] | 07:30-21:00 | 40,000vnđ
- Mì Quảng Cô Ngư: outisde 12 Cao Hồng Lãnh [MAP] | 06:30-08:30 | 25,000vnđ
A noodle dish native to central Vietnam, mì quảng is named after Quảng Nam, the province Hội An belongs to. Mì quảng is a cool, moist noodle dish with an aromatic blend of soft, flat mì noodles, with a choice of shrimp, chicken, pork, fish or frog, along with an array of fresh vegetables and herbs such as mint, green papaya, lettuce, bean sprouts and Asian basil. Peanuts, rice crackers and quail eggs add texture, and a shallow broth brings all the flavours together without drowning the dish’s many components. Squeezed lime juice and chilli can be added at the diner’s discretion. Widely enjoyed throughout the day, some people would argue mì quảng is Vietnam’s best breakfast. It’s hard to disagree.
Mì Quảng Ông Hai is popular with travellers in Hội An, nestled in a quaint alley away from the bustling tourist area. Operating for over 35 years, the restaurant decor adds a sense of intimacy, with the walls adorned by photos of family weddings and holidays. Adverts for transport services and trinkets for sale suggest a restaurant that has increasingly turned its focus to the tourist market, but the noodles are still very good.
Served from temporary fixtures upon a street pavement, Mì Quảng Cô Ngư is one of my favourite discoveries in Hội An. With a choice of chicken or shrimp noodles (chicken is the most delicious, according to one patron), vendor Cô Ngư excels in hasty service and tasty portions for those looking for a quick breakfast before they head to work. This is a memorable culinary experience on a lively streetside that would suit any traveller looking for the perfect breakfast pick-up. Among the many bowls of mì quảng I sampled in Hội An, Cô Ngư’s was the best. Get here early before she sells out.
Images of Mì Quảng
Cơm Gà:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Cơm Gà Long: 53/16 Phan Chu Trinh [MAP] | 11:30-22:00 | 45,000vnđ
- Cơm Gà Xí: 47/2 Trần Hưng Đạo [MAP] | 12:00-20:00 | 25,000vnđ
Hội An chicken rice (cơm gà Hội An) is characterised by thin slices of fragrant chicken atop yellow-tinted rice, accompanied by a leafy green salad. This Chinese-influenced Vietnamese classic is also known as cơm gà Tam Kỳ outside of Hội An. The rice – coloured by the chicken stock it’s boiled with – boasts a signature yellow hue and delicate flavour, while the salad typically comprises papaya, carrots, onions, fish sauce, coriander and lime juice. The chicken can be served mixed with the salad or separately. The accompanying broth can be used in various ways: to wet the rice, as a dipping sauce, or as a soup to wash everything down with.
Chicken isn’t my thing, so I asked my friend and London-based chef Tiến to take on the task of tasting for this guide. We began with Cơm Gà Long, down an alley and round the corner from the central tourist strip. Lanterns with ‘Cơm Gà Long’ printed on them hang above the alley as a directional aid. Cơm Gà Long has a touch of elegance, with wooden furniture organised strategically around the family house courtyard. While the portion size is fair, the price is slightly above the average at 45,000vnđ. Up the road and down a different alley, Cơm Gà Xí offers a more bustling atmosphere. Operating out of a crevice in the alleyway, tables and chairs unapologetically obstruct large vehicles from comfortably passing by. Service is quick and people are chatty. The price is almost half the price of Cơm Gà Long at 25,000vnđ per dish.
Tiến’s verdict leaned towards Cơm Gà Xí for its tender chicken, despite the rice being less fragrant. Cơm Gà Long offers a more aromatic dish with slightly tougher chicken, a texture preferred by Vietnamese diners. Both establishments offer similar portion sizes and have all the familiar condiments to hand. Cơm Gà Xí eatery embraces the alleyway aesthetics while Cơm Gà Long boasts a more pleasant and polite atmosphere. Whether seeking the street experience or a cosy meal with friends, the choice between Xí’s and Long’s ultimately depends on your preference of ambience and the tenderness of your chicken.
Cháo Nghêu:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Cháo Ngêu Cô Gió: Hai Bà Trưng, An Bàng [MAP] | 09:00-18:00 | 25,000-35,000vnđ
A bowl of cháo nghêu is a hearty mix of rice porridge with clams, green onion, ginger, pepper, green bean, shallots and crushed pepper. This ugly duckling of a dish isn’t going to light up your social media feed but it is going to make you think differently about the idea of rice gruel.
Cháo Nghêu Cô Gió is where the dish is most famed in Hội An. The eatery sits awkwardly between the bars and bigger restaurants leading to An Bàng beach, due north of Hội An town. Its ramshackle appearance contrasts with the commercialization that has swept the rest of the area and consequently it may escape the notice of passersby with its unassuming presence. Nevertheless, Cháo Nghêu Cô Gió draws large crowds at meal times, a testament to its popularity among locals and domestic tourists who care about what matters most, the food! Flavoursome, filling and affordable, this rice porridge is soft on the teeth, easy on the stomach and surprisingly rich and complex. Besides the clam porridge (cháo nghêu) there is also an option for cháo sườn (pork rib porridge).
Operating from 9:00 to 18:00, Cháo Nghêu Cô Gió serves as a perfect stopover for beachgoers—en route to An Bang—seeking a satisfying stomach filler. At 25,000vnđ a bowl, Cháo Nghêu Cô Gió is raising the flavour flag down at the beach. Give it a stop on your way to the waves.
Bánh Đập & Hến Xào:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Quán Bánh Đập Số 9: Cẩm Nam Island [MAP] | 09:00-21:00 | 20,000-40,000vnđ
A triple-layered rice cracker, comprised of two grilled rice crackers and one soft ‘wet’ rice paper in the middle, bánh đập was one of the first dishes I ate when I started living in central Vietnam in 2011, and I can still remember the shock from the unusual flavours of the mắm cá cơm (fermented anchovy dipping sauce) that bánh đập is served with. Hến xào is a heated salad of baby clams, peanuts, onions and coriander that complements the bánh đập and makes it a full meal. Diners can enhance the flavours of each dish by adding smidgens of chilli to the fermented anchovy dipping sauce and fish sauce to the hến xào.
Quán Bánh Đập Số 9 sits on an island in the Thu Bồn estuary, where the hến (baby clams) used to be harvested. The atmosphere is serene, with a gentle breeze from the river providing respite from the central Vietnamese heat. In addition to bánh đập and hến xào, Quán Bánh Đập Số 9 offers a variety of other dishes and refreshments. The clientele is diverse, ranging from local families arriving by car to domestic tourists on motorbikes. Surprisingly, foreign tourists are seldom seen here, perhaps deterred by the distance from the Old Quarter and the unattractive, under-furnished building. However, the short trip here is well worth it.
With each visit to Bánh Đập Số 9 I become more enamored of the dish and now I crave the flavours that once shocked me. My loyalty lies with Quán Bánh Đập Số 9 because of my history with it, but the neighbouring establishments also offer the same dishes.
Images of Bánh Đập & Hến Xào
Bánh Mì:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Bánh Mì Phố Cổ: corner of Lê Lợi & Trần Hưng Đạo [MAP] | 06:30-10:30 & 14:30-23:00 | 25,000vnđ
- Madam Khanh: The Bánh Mì Queen: 115 Trần Cao Vân [MAP] | 06:30-19:00 | 25,000vnđ
A culinary legacy of French colonialism, bánh mì has become a cornerstone of Vietnamese street food, featuring a blend of meats, spreads and vegetables in a rice-flour baguette. Despite its French origins, bánh mì is a favourite snack among locals and a go-to for travellers for its familiar form and diverse fillings.
While bánh mì is not exclusively tied to Hội An, its popularity among international tourists has made it one of the most profitable food types for local vendors to sell. With the rise of international tourism, certain establishments like Bánh Mì Phượng have achieved immense success, further elevated by the visit of celebrities like Anthony Bourdain. However, the question arises: is bánh mì in Hội An part of the town’s culinary identity, or simply a product of tourist demand?
Exploring the bánh mì scene in Hội An reveals a variety of options, each with its own unique atmosphere and offerings. From the bustling streetscape presented in front of the cart of Bánh Mì Phố Cổ to the tourist-crowded storefront of Madam Khanh: The Bánh Mì Queen, opinions on the best bánh mì vary widely. Despite the hype surrounding certain establishments, the quest for the perfect bánh mì ultimately comes down to personal preference. My taste pushes me towards choosing vendors that connect with their surrounding area, encouraging interaction and a sense of.…life! For this reason, I would recommend Bánh Mì Phố Cổ, not because it’s necessarily the best tasting bánh mì or good value for money, but because it has a wide view of the busy crossroads in front of it and offers the chance for interactions with the living environment.
While some may flock to popular spots based on online reviews, the true essence of bánh mì lies in following your instincts and exploring options through a variety of means. Blindly following crowds can lead to disappointment, precisely because part of the enjoyment comes from those self-made ‘discoveries’ or recommendations we receive from locals. Take a risk and give your intuition a go. The higher the leaf, the greater the taste.
Images of Bánh Mì
Bánh Bèo:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Bánh Bèo Cô Tú: 77/1 Phan Đình Phùng [MAP] | 15:00-19:00 | 15,000vnđ
While I was eating at Mì Quảng Cô Ngự as part of my research for this guide, a fellow diner suggested that I include bánh bèo in my list. Though I protested bánh bèo’s origins to be Huế, she insisted that Hội An has its own unique variation of bánh bèo that’s worthy of my attention. Intrigued, I accepted her suggestion and headed to Bánh Bèo Cô Tú, a modest establishment tucked away in a quiet Hội An alleyway.
Bánh bèo are typically small steamed rice cakes topped with shrimp, fried shallots and a drizzle of fish sauce. While Huế-style bánh bèo are bite-sized with shredded shrimp on top, Hội An-style bánh bèo are much larger, topped with rice cracker twiglets and a tasty shrimp sauce.
Arriving at Bánh Bèo Cô Tú, I found myself in the warmth of the owner’s living room. Tú and her husband have been perfecting their bánh bèo recipe for years, starting each day before dawn to prepare the cake mixture. Despite their advanced age, they continue to uphold their practice with dedication, serving up batches of bánh bèo mid-afternoon to a mix of clientele: Vietnamese families, couples and small tour groups. I also noticed uniformed children enjoying a post-school snack with their parents, adding a sense of community within the eatery.
As for the bánh bèo itself, the portions are substantial yet inexpensive – it’s best to start with just a couple and then order more if needed. Homemade chả bò (Vietnamese sausage) is also available for an additional treat, neatly wrapped in leaves. Bánh Bèo Cô Tú was a recommendation well received and a great addition to a culinary exploration of Hội An.
Images of Bánh Bèo
Bánh Vạc:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- White Rose Restaurant: 533 Hai Bà Trưng [MAP] | 07:30-20:30 | 70,000-100,000vnđ
Contrary to my initial impression, the bánh vạc (white rose dumpling) isn’t just a tourist gimmick, it’s a century-old family tradition, originating from the current owner’s great-great grandfather, Trịnh Triệu Tam, a member of the Fujian community that settled in Hội An long ago. Bánh vạc has been passed down through four generations, and despite the passage of time and changing landscapes, this delicacy continues to be a popular component of the Hội An foodscape.
Bánh vạc is a delicate flower-moulded dumpling with a savoury shrimp-paste filling in the centre. It’s steamed until tender and garnished with crispy fried shallots and a bowl of fish sauce with chilli slices for dipping. Each bite reflects its Fujian roots and contemporary home of Hội An.
At White Rose Restaurant the menu is minimal, featuring only two dishes: the traditional bánh vạc and a contemporary twist known as hoành thánh chiên, often dubbed the ‘Hội An Pizza’. This innovative creation transforms the classic white rose dumplings into a crispy tortilla-like wonton, filled with shrimp and topped with a pineapple-infused tomato roulade and fresh coriander – a guilty pleasure for deep-fried food enthusiasts.
The decision to offer both a traditional and a modern option reflects a thoughtful approach to honouring culinary heritage while embracing change. Through these two dishes, White Rose Restaurant caters to a clientele who may be seeking authenticity, novelty or both! If you can’t decide between the two, yon can opt for a “half-half” serving.
Managed by Trần Hiếu Tường Phương, the latest custodian of this culinary heirloom, White Rose Restaurant takes pride in its heritage. Phương’s dedication to upholding his family’s legacy is palpable through his enthusiasm to share information about the restaurant and even accept my request for a photograph! Visitors should take note of the portraits of Phương’s ancestors framed on the walls as well as the late Kazimierz Kwiatkowski, a renowned architect instrumental in Hội An’s UNESCO heritage status, who was a frequent customer at White Rose Restaurant..
Bánh vạc is available all over Hội An but it’s only here that they are produced from scratch. The staff work throughout the day, preparing and sending batches of bánh vạc to other restaurants. White Rose restaurant is where they are most fresh.
Images of Bánh Vạc
Tàu Phớ:
WHERE TO EAT IT?
- Chè Án: 132 Nguyễn Thái Học [MAP] | 11:00-22:00 | 20,000vnđ
Desserts were my final task in Hội An and tàu phớ was first on my list. Chè Án is a restaurant near the bustling Thu Bồn riverfront and the famous An Hội Bridge. Among the array of desserts on offer, I found what I came for: tàu phớ Hội An. This Chinese-inspired dessert features cold silken tofu infused with sugar and ginger, accompanied by trân châu, black tapioca starch syrup commonly used in bubble tea. Served with ice cubes, it proved to be a refreshing treat to combat the boiling temperatures. Other chè varieties available include: chè mè đen (black sesame – a personal favourite), chè hạt sen (lotus seed), chè đậu đỏ (red bean), and chè đậu bắp (sweet corn). For those unsure of what to try, the chè thập cẩm (mixed) offers a sampling of everything.
Ms. Ánh, the owner of Chè Án, has been running the shop for over a decade. While the dessert is certainly enjoyable, the real charm lies in the historic building, over 100 years old, and its location as a premium people-watching spot amidst the modern chaos of Hội An’s old quarter.
Images of Tàu Phớ
Trà Mót:
WHERE TO HAVE IT?
- Mót: 150 Trần Phú [MAP] | 08:00-23:00 | 18,000vnđ
There’s no denying that this lotus flower drink (known as trà mót, nước mót or simply mót) is visually stunning, especially with a classic yellow-walled Hội An shophouse as a backdrop. You can’t help but want to take a photo of it and that’s one of the reasons why it sells. As I am taking a photo of my drink, I hear two voices behind my shoulder.
“It says it’s traditional.”
She wasn’t wrong. It was written on the A-board outside the shop: ‘Traditional’, that familiar buzzword in the tourism industry. I take the opportunity and turn to ask the British couple:
“When you are told something is traditional, what do you think it means?”
“Well, I guess it means it’s really old and belongs to the local culture.”
“But how old? A year, 10 years, 100 years…?”
“Around 1,000 years”, said the man. I felt that this set the bar ambitiously high, but I was interested to find out more about the drink. Somehow, a cup had made its way into my hand and it was already half empty.
According to a member of staff, trà mót has been sold here since 2014. But aside from the price of the drink and the hours of operation, there wasn’t much more he could tell me. He couldn’t really explain why the drink was ‘traditional’. On the blackboard, it was described in Sino-Vietnamese as ‘thảo mộc’ (herbal), suggesting a concoction of traditional medicinal practices from times past.
The birth of the mót drink appears to have coincided with a pivotal period for international tourism. This was the advent of smartphones, Instagram and the selfie revolution. This was the first full year of operation for Danang’s fire breathing Dragon Bridge and only a few years before the Golden Bridge at Bana Hills became a selfie hotspot. Mót is popular for because it’s photogenic and will look good on your social channels. At 10 years old, it is now a traditional selfie prop in Hội An. What are the depths of its cultural significance to Hội An’s culinary scene? Honestly, I don’t know. But it’s a pretty drink sold in a pretty shop.
The couple buy one cup of trà mót to share between them. “Is it good?”
“It’s a bit too sweet.”
“What would you say if I told you that this ‘traditional’ drink is only 10 years old?”
Images of Trà Mót
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Luke has written this guide because he wants to: he likes Hội An’s food and he wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
