First published September 2024 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle
Tom Divers is the founder and creator of Vietnam Coracle. He’s lived, travelled and worked in Vietnam since 2005. Born in London, he travelled from an early age, visiting over 40 countries (he first visited Vietnam in 1999). Now, whenever he has the opportunity to make a trip, he rarely looks beyond Vietnam’s borders and his trusty motorbike, Stavros. Read more about Tom on the About Page, Vietnam Times and ASE Podcast.
If you can imagine how an animated Disney movie set in an idealized rural Vietnam might look, then you are halfway to picturing the reality of Pù Luông Nature Reserve. A steep, fertile valley enclosed by jagged limestone mountains, Pù Luông Nature Reserve is dotted with wood-and-thatch hamlets where homes hover on stilts above luminous rice terraces that cascade down to the banks of blue rivers where they meet bamboo-fleeced slopes soaring skywards and poking above low-hanging cloud. Women, men and buffalo work the fields while children herd cattle and goats from pasture to pasture, playing in the rich earth and jumping off bamboo bridges into rivers as they go. Pù Luông, it seems, is a land where nature is almost entirely benevolent. Clusters of dramatically situated homestays and resorts offer some of the most atmospheric and romantic accommodation in Vietnam, and a base from which to explore the region. Hiking, cycling, motorbiking, climbing, kayaking, waterfalls, caves, ‘cloud hunting’, local markets and delicious home-cooked food await all travellers who venture to Pù Luông. Part of Thanh Hóa Province, just 3-4 hours southwest of Hanoi by road, Pù Luông is by no means a ‘secret’, indeed it gets busy on weekends and public holidays, but it is significantly less crowded than better-known destinations and, so far, development has been relatively sensible and sensitive.
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PU LUONG NATURE RESERVE
A Sub-Tropical Garden of Eden in Northern Vietnam
This guide is intended as a primer for travellers wishing to visit Pù Luông Nature Reserve: an introduction to the fundamentals of exploring, experiencing and enjoying this bucolic, pastoral corner of Vietnam. I’ve included an annotated map of the nature reserve and written overviews of essential aspects, such as weather, orientation, accommodation, sights, activities and transportation. Click an item from the contents below for more details and, if you like this guide, please donate.
CONTENTS:
MAP:
Pù Luông Nature Reserve
Weather & Orientation:
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A trip to Pù Luông Nature Reserve is possible at any time of year. However, the best period for weather conditions and colours in the landscape is from April-September. Personally, my favourite time to visit is spring (March-May), when the sun is shining, colours are vibrant, the air is warm but not oppressive, the summer crowds have yet to arrive, and the whole region looks and feels like a sub-tropical Eden. Summer (June-August) is good for scenery but can be uncomfortably hot and humid and fairly busy with domestic and international visitors. Autumn (September-November) is pretty good as the temperatures are cooler, but after the harvest (September-October) many of the fields are burned and smoke streaks the valley. Winter (December-February) can be surprisingly grey and chilly, and the fields are fallow.
Pù Luông Nature Reserve is located in the northwestern corner of Thanh Hóa Province, 160km southwest of Hanoi. The nature reserve encompasses several deep valleys enclosed by steep limestone karst mountains which form ridges on a north-south axis, effectively cutting off Pù Luộng from the rest of the region. Pù Luông is bisected by QL15C (also labelled CT02), a breathtaking road leading above the valley from Cành Nàng town (Bá Thước) in the south, through the heart of the nature reserve, to the junction with QL15 in the north near Co Lương. The road serves as Pù Luông’s hub for transportation and facilities, such as accommodation and restaurants. Near the middle of road QL15C, Bản Đôn was once a tiny hamlet but is now effectively the centre of Pù Luông’s tourist industry, where most travellers base themselves, eat, drink and sleep. Further north on QL15C, accessed via steep concrete lanes, are a handful of other hamlets with accommodation, such as Kho Mường and Bản Hang. On the valley floor, near the centre of Pù Luông, are the dusty villages of Làng Tôm and Phố Đoàn, market towns that supply the local population with anything they can’t get in their mountainside hamlets. In the east of the nature reserve, Bản Hiêu is a cluster of hamlets clinging to the steep slopes of a spectacular valley with several homestays. To the north, an extremely steep road zigzags over the mountains to a stark plateau, often veiled in a silver mist, to Lũng Vân village, also dotted with homestays.
Where to Stay:
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Apart from the scenery, a highlight of visiting Pù Luông is staying at one of the many cosy, atmospheric and beautifully situated homestays or resorts that are dotted throughout the nature reserve. There is a lot of accommodation to choose from, so it’s worth spending some time before settling on a property to base yourself at. A decade ago, accommodation in Pù Luông was mostly in cheap, local homestays, sleeping on a mattress under a mosquito net on the upper floor of a family home in a wood-and-thatch stilt house among the rice fields and farm animals with a shared bathroom. These days, a lot of the accommodation in Pù Luông is more upmarket: eco-resorts, wellness retreats and boutique homestays with infinity pools overlooking the rice terraces, ensuite bathrooms, mod-cons, and decor that reflects the local aesthetic, but run by business-savvy Hanoians rather than local families. As a general rule, homestays are better for experiencing local life, whereas resorts as geared more towards relaxation and comfort. However, both types of accommodation make the most of Pù Luông’s majestic scenery and attractive traditional architectural style.
Reservations & Room Rates: In general, real homestays are very cheap: for less that 150,000vnđ you will get a bed in a communal room with clean linen, mosquito net and shared bathroom facilities, but the price will not include any food: that is ordered and paid for separately (see Eat & Drink). Making reservations for real homestays like this isn’t really necessary (or possible) as many don’t have websites or published contact information. Rather, real homestays are found and booked by independent travellers exploring the nature reserve on foot or two wheels, showing up at the villages and following the signs to homestays then asking for a room for the night. Things are very different for the boutique homestays and resorts, many of which have websites, are listed on booking search engines, such as Agoda.com, and should be booked in advance if travelling on a weekend or during a public holiday. Rates range from $15-$100+ per night for a private room with private bathroom, usually including breakfast and use of any facilities, such as swimming pool or gym. Because accommodation is spread around the nature reserve, it is a good idea to book your first night’s accommodation in advance, as this means you will have a specific place to aim for when you arrive. After that, you can either stay more nights at your original accommodation or choose to move somewhere else instead.
Villages & Homestay Clusters: Accommodation is spread throughout the nature reserve, mostly in clusters in and around several villages that dot the countryside. I’ve marked each village with a red house icon on my map. Below, I’ve written a brief overview of each village, including some specific accommodation suggestions, but there are many more available. In some cases you can use the Agoda links to check availability and book directly or contact the accommodation via their website. You can also browse dozens of places to stay in Pù Luông on Agoda.com.
Bản Đôn Village [MAP] Roughly halfway along road QL15C, Bản Đôn features the densest concentration of accommodation in Pù Luông Nature Reserve. Sprawling down the steep hillsides and overlooking limestone mountains, rice terraces and jungle, Bản Đôn’s network of concrete lanes leads to dozens of good homestays and resorts. You’ll find everything from cheap homestay dorms to luxurious eco-retreats. The views are astonishing and some of the accommodation is excellent. Accommodation options now continue along the roadside for a while north of Bản Đôn. Travellers are spoiled for choice. Some standouts include Pu Luong Treehouse [Check Rates], Pu Luong Natura [Check Rates], Pu Luong Retreat [Check Rates] and Hanasa Resort [Check Rates] among others.
Bản Hiêu Village [MAP] Located in the east of the nature reserve, Bản Hiêu is a collection of homestays and resorts centered around a pretty waterfall (Thác Hiêu) accessed via a series of steep lanes. Surrounded by jungle and limestone karsts rising sharply for the rice paddies, Bản Hiêu is isolated and small, but thanks to growing popularity, it is now a bit overcrowded with homestays. The main homestay cluster (lower Bản Hiêu) is bunched around the entrance to the waterfall. The standout accommodation here is Les Bains de Hiêu [Check Rates], a highly atmospheric boutique homestay perched on the slopes. Another good option is Bản Hiêu Garden Lodge Homestay [Check Rates]. To get away from the overcrowded feeling near the waterfall, head up the lane to upper Bản Hiêu, a ridge above the waterfall where a tiny hamlet boasts a few good homestays, such as Mr Ba Homestay (0379 781 988) and Duy Phương Homestay [Check Rates]. Down in the valley, Pu Luong Hideout Bamboo [Check Rates] is also very good.
Kho Mường Village [MAP] A small hamlet in a clearing between soaring limestone pillars, Kho Mường only has a few homestays, all of which are much more traditional than those you find in Bản Đôn and Bản Hiêu. Kho Mường is quiet, remote, scenic and can only be accessed via a very steep, narrow lane or dirt pathway. Homestays, such as Mr Nếch’s (0917 252 041), will appeal to travellers wanting a more rustic and ‘authentic’ experience. The nearby Dơi Cave is impressive and there’s good hiking here. You won’t find cocktails or infinity pools in Kho Mường.
Bản Hang Village [MAP] In the northwest of the nature reserve, Bản Hang is accessed via a steep lane leading off QL15C. Set in a valley along the banks of a clear river, Bản Hang is a small settlement with a handful of homestays, many of which are aimed at accommodating large groups. The river is pretty and good for bathing, there’s a cave nearby and some hiking, but Bản Hang is quite far from the rest of Pù Luông’s attractions. Hiếu Yến Homestay (0382 045 782) is a pretty place to stay, just a short walk from the river.
Lũng Vân Village [MAP] In the northern reaches of the nature reserve, Lũng Vân is a scruffy village overlooking a barren and rocky plateau where clouds often linger throughout the day, caught is a crown of protruding limestone karsts. To get there, one must take an extremely steep road up a mountain pass, affording spectacular views. There are quite a few homestays scattered across the plateau, including the substantial Đại Ngàn Mây Hotel [Check Rates] and Nam Sơn Maison (0392 001 979), as well as a homestay hamlet just south of Lũng Vân village. This part of the nature reserve it at a higher altitude and temperatures are cooler, especially at night.
Pù Bin Village [MAP] In the far north of the region, Pù Bin is a tiny and remote hamlet on the slopes of a steep valley adorned with terraced fields. Although not technically part of the nature reserve, Pù Bin is very much in the same vein as Pù Luông: mesmerizing landscape, small paved roads, and several homestays sprinkled here and there. The standout is Pù Bin Spice Hills [Check Rates].
Lũng Cao Village [MAP] Near the end of a valley on a dead-end road, Lũng Cao only has a couple of fairly basic homestays to choose from. The river and surrounding countryside are pretty but not spectacular, the local life is not geared towards tourism and there’s not a wellness retreat or cocktail bar in sight, all of which may appeal to some travellers who find themselves disappointed by the comforts and luxuries of Bản Đôn.
What to See & Do:
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There’s a lot to see, do, experience and explore in and around Pù Luông Nature Reserve. Hiking, cycling, motorbiking, caves, waterfalls, bamboo rafts, water wheels, river bathing, climbing, local life, markets and even ‘cloud hunting’. I’ve marked many sights, routes and activities on my map, which travellers can use to explore the nature reserve. Below, I’ve written a brief introduction to some of the things to see and do in Pù Luông. You could easily spend a full week exploring the nature reserve, but anything from 3-6 days is fine. Most things can be done independently, without the need for a guide or going on a tour. In addition, most accommodations in Pù Luông can offer advice or arrange trips for their guests.
Local Life & Markets: If you’re staying in a real homestay, simply observing (or even partaking) in daily life can be fun and engaging. Many homestays are essentially small farms with livestock, crop fields, herb and vegetable gardens, tropical fruit trees, looms for making clothing, bamboo pipes for irrigating the fields by channeling water from mountain streams, large cooking hearths around an open flame and open-plan food preparation area. It is fascinating to witness and try to understand how everything works and how families sustain themselves living on these steep slopes far from the big cities. There are a few local markets that take place on specific days in the nature reserve. Enquire at your accommodation to get the dates. The biggest is generally in Phố Đoàn.
Hiking, Cycling & Motorbiking: The nature reserve and surrounding area is ideal for long walks, challenging bicycle rides and scenic motorbike riding. You can do this independently, without the need to hire a guide or go on a tour. Because the road network around Pù Luông is good but traffic is light, it’s possible to use all the routes I’ve drawn on my map with red and blue lines for hiking or cycling or motorbiking. Spending a few days following these routes is a very rewarding way to explore the nature reserve and you’ll be able to visit many of Pù Luông’s attractions along the way. Your accommodation should be able to arrange bicycles or motorbikes for day rental. Remember to bring some water and sunscreen and maybe a couple of snacks to keep you going. Note that the blue route on my map is the Pù Luông Loop, a figure-of-eight that starts and ends in Bản Đôn village. This is the most common itinerary. The red lines on my map are side routes to explore further flung parts of the nature reserve, with Bản Hiêu being the most popular, and Lũng Vân and Pù Bin being the most remote. There’s also the possibility of climbing Mt. Pù Luông, but you will need a guide for this – ask at your accommodation. (To explore the wider area beyond Pù Luông Nature Reserve on two wheels, take a look at my guide to The Limestone Loop).
Caves: The limestones mountains hide many caverns, a couple of which can be entered. Hang Dơi (Bat Cave) is accessed via a pretty path through the rice paddies just beyond Kho Mường village. The entrance (10,000vnđ) is across a wooden bridge over a stream and up to the cave mouth. The cave was formed around 250 million years ago and its system extends 2.5km under the mountains. Little steps (they can be slippery) lead down into the cavern and around its base where moss-covered stalagmite’s rise from the dark towards the light of the cave mouth, like plants seeking sunlight. It’s an impressive sight and worth the trip. There are other small caves in the nature reserve, including one near Bản Hang village: ask for directions once you get to the village.
Waterfalls: Pù Luông and its immediate environs are dotted with some picturesque waterfalls. Cascading through the jungle and falling over limestone terraces, the light blue water collects in luminous pools that are perfect for bathing. Hiêu Waterfall (thác Hiêu) is particularly striking and conveniently located close to the two Bản Hiêu homestay villages. However, the falls have become very popular in recent years which has led to some litter and overcrowding around the site. Further east, Mu (thác Mu) and Mây (thác Mây) waterfalls are equally pretty and can be reached on foot from Bản Hiêu with a guide, or by road from the east via the Ho Chi Minh Road. The appearance of the waterfalls depends on the season and how much rainfall there has been: too little and the falls lose their majesty; to much and the falls become swollen with brown water.
Water Wheels & Rafting: Traditionally, bamboo water wheels took water from the rivers into channels which irrigated the fields. This system is still used in parts of Pù Luông and other areas of northern Vietnam. These days, several bamboo water wheels have become popular sites for tourist photo opportunities. The wheels are indeed very pretty and timeless. In addition, locals now operate bamboo rafts across the river. Three bamboo water wheel sites can be visited on back-roads just south of Làng Tôm village in the south of the nature reserve.
Cloud Hunting: A trend among young Vietnamese travellers, săn mây (literally ‘cloud hunting’) has become so popular that some destinations in Vietnam are visited purely for the pursuit of this activity. In reality, cloud hunting just means staying somewhere in the mountains and getting up early in the morning when the mist and clouds linger in the valleys and around the peaks, which makes for great photos that can be shared on social media. Pù Luông gets good săn mây, but the part of the nature reserve best suited to cloud hunting is the high, cold plateau accessed via the incredibly steep road to Lũng Vân. There’s a cloud hunting cafe on the pass and several of the homestays on the plateau specifically advertise themselves as good for săn mây. The area around Pù Bin village is also known for cloud hunting. It’s all good fun, but you need to get up early for the best conditions.
Where to Eat & Drink:
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Where and how you drink and dine will depend largely on what kind of accommodation you’re staying in and which village you are based in. Because there are no large settlements within Pù Luông Nature Reserve, there isn’t much in the way of street food or casual dining, like you would find in most Vietnamese towns. Instead, most travellers dine at their accommodation. If staying in a homestay, meals will be a set price and set menu and generally guests will dine together. If staying in a resort, there will likely be an a là carte menu for food and drink and guests can dine separately. Bản Đôn is the only village where it’s possible for travellers to ‘dine out’ at restaurants beyond their accommodation. Many of the larger resorts have restaurants that are open to non-guests and there are an increasing number of casual dining options lining road QL15C as it passes through Bản Đôn village. Some of these restaurants are pretty bad compared to the excellent homecooked meals you get in the homestays. However, a few of them are very, very good indeed:
Nhà Hàng Đặc Sản Pù Luông [MAP] A magnificent restaurant with a limited menu of local specialities as well as some more familiar dishes aimed at foreign diners. Make sure you order off the Vietnamese menu, not the English menu. The restaurant features a terrace overlooking the valley. Don’t miss the slow-cooked pork belly (thịt lợn bản), stir-fried bamboo with betel leaf (măng xào lá lốt), and banana and honey fritters (chuối đốt rượu) for dessert. There’s also a drinks menu, including cocktails, wine and local rice liquors infused with various flavours. By contrast, the next door Pù Luông 0KM Restaurant is a dreadful imitation: don’t confuse the two.
Gateway Inn Pù Luông [MAP] Offering excellent value family-style set menus and views across the valley, this is a relatively new addition to the dining scene in Bản Đôn. Make sure you’re hungry, because the portions are big.
Homestays & Resorts: At homestays, host families cook delicious meals for their guests using local ingredients to make local dishes. These meals are a highlight of any homestay experience. Guests are usually required to order several hours in advance and give a specific time for dining, so that the hosts can prepare and arrange the meals accordingly. Prices range from about 100,000-250,000vnđ per person for dinner which, considering the quality and quantity of food, is very good value. Vegetarian meals can be arranged too; just make sure you communicate this clearly when ordering. At most resorts, there’s an a là carte menu to order from. Some resorts offer set menus, and these are almost always the best option. Depending on your resort, you may still have to order well in advance of your dining time so that the kitchen can stock up on the necessary supplies.
Homestay food is generally excellent. Resort food can be hit and miss, but is sometimes exceptional. In Pù Luông it is always best to order and eat local dishes, not Western-style meals. An example of a homestay meal from one of my recent visits to Pù Luông was: spice and herb pork patties, aromatic spring rolls, small fried fish from a local stream, a hearty cabbage soup, stir-fried ‘wild’ greens from the jungle and honey-infused, home-brewed rice liquor. For breakfast, a kind of pancake made from rice flour and duck eggs dipped in wild honey and fresh leaf green tea.
Getting There & Around:
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Getting to Pù Luông: Despite its increasing popularity, Pù Luông is still not as easy to reach for independent travellers as most other tourist destinations in the country. Improved roads and bus connections mean that journey time from Hanoi (160km) is now between 3-5 hours. Hanoi’s Nội Bai Airport (180km) and Thanh Hóa’s Thọ Xuân Airport (90km) should be hubs for transportation to Pù Luông, but as yet the connections are too complicated. Ninh Bình, another popular destination, is only 120km east of Pù Luông, but again transportation connections are not good enough. Things will surely improve in the near future, but for now most travellers will arrive in Pù Luông via buses from Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Minibuses – also called ‘limousine vans’ – leave from Hanoi’s central Hoàn Kiếm District, tickets cost around 300,000vnđ. You can check times and prices and book tickets on Baolau.com or use the search box below. Alternatively, contact your accommodation in Pù Luông to ask if they have their own means of transportation for guests or if they recommend a specific bus company. (If travelling to Pù Luông by motorbike, see my Limestone Loop guide.)
Search & Book Transportation to Pù Luông:
Getting Around Pù Luông: Walking, cycling and motorbiking are all great ways of getting around the nature reserve. Inquire at your accommodation about renting bicycles or motorbikes. Bear in mind that some of the roads are incredibly steep and, although road conditions are improving all the time, some sections can be bumpy or muddy. It’s possible to walk everywhere in Pù Luông, but remember to bring sunscreen and water during the summer, and warm clothing during the winter. The roads and lanes are not busy, so they make pleasant hiking routes. Whether walking, cycling or motorbiking, you can follow any of the routes outlined on my map of Pù Luông Nature Reserve.
*Disclosure: I never receive payment for anything I write: my content is always free and independent. I’ve written this guide because I want to: I like this nature reserve and I want my readers to know about it. For more details, see my Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
Good morning,
we would like to sleep with a local in Pu luong on Thursday March 7, 2024. We are 2 people.
Can you help us?
THANKS
jerome
Hi Jerome,
Sorry, I can’t book accommodation for you. It’s best if you try to contact the homestays directly.
Best,
Tom
Hi, we are going to spend some time in pu Luong from Mai chau and I’m wondering what the situation is with fuel for the motorbike? Are there petrol stations close by or do we have to carry extra with us?
Hi Cody,
Yes, there’s plenty of fuel available, just don’t let your tank go too low before refilling and you should be fine.
Best,
Tom
Thank you for this well written blog, I just wonder if we are able to tour this area without join a tour from Hanoi? We prefer travel in our own pace, spend time on something really interesting to us. My husband wants to see rice field water system in detail ( he is into permaculture stuff). Is it possible to find someone speaks English locally as our guide?
We are going to be in Hanoi for 7 full days (3/25-3/31)
Hi Hueylee,
Yes, once you are at homestay in Pu Luong Nature Reserve I’m sure you can ask your hosts and they’re be able to arrange an English-speaking guide for you. For example, try contacting Pu Luong Tree House.
Also, because many of the homestays are actually involved in rice farming, you will have plenty of opportunities to see and understand the rice field irrigation system.
Best,
Tom
Hey Tom. I’m in Pu Luong right now (I know, lucky me!).
There’s a mistake in the article and in the map, which has led to some confusion while being here. The area you point out both on the map and the article as Kho Muong, is actually Ban Don (where Pu Luong Retreat etc are). Kho Muong is further north, and it’s actually another cluster of homestays and it’s where the bat cave is. You can see both clearly on the handy map of the reserve you posted a photo of.
Cheers!
Hi Martin,
Oh, yes. Thank you. That’s rather strange as I know where Kho Muong is in relation to Ban Don. I’m sorry for the confusion. I will need to update the guide fully at some point. But for now thank you for pointing this out so that it won’t confuse other readers.
I hope you enjoy the rest of your time in Pu Luong.
Best,
Tom
No problem Tom! You already do too much with this website, so useful!
Btw, we’re trying to go to Mai Chau next, but there isn’t seem to be any public transportation between both places.
Any ideas where to start looking? (No motorbike!)
Thanks!
Hi Martin,
It’s just a short distance, so I would ask at wherever you’re staying in Pu Luong for information – I’m sure they can arrange/will know about transport to Mai Chai. I would also guess there’s a local bus between Pu Luong and Mai Chai.
Best,
Tom
HI Tom,
We are looking for an authentic traditional style family homestay in Pu Luong that is affordable. Can you recommend any in particular and do you have the contacts?
Cheers, Bianca
Hi Bianca,
I’ve recommended quite a few homestays above here. Take a look at them – they’re all great and most are very cheap – check the descriptions above for some more details.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Stupid question. I have been in Pu Luong for three days in February and loved it. I was with a guide there, but was thinking of going on my own this time. However, for what I remember of the place, it looks like it would be difficult for me to go hiking or trekking on my own without getting lost. Would you hire a guide to go explore the place on foot? Could you check for the guides rates on the spot (my last guide took me there from Ninh Binh)?
Hi Rob,
I think you could find guide rates etc on the spot in some of the homestays, especially the ones in Kho Muong and Ban Hieu. I think it’s perfectly feasible to walk from one homestay to the next on roads, lanes and paths independently. The area isn’t that large so you’re never that far from a homestay. With a decent sense of direction, a photo of one of the park maps, and some Google map checking I would think you’d be OK.
Tom
Hey Tom, recently was going through the area and thought to stop in Ban Hieu, but feels like the vibe is a bit off because of all the road construction and new house construction in the village. I ended up going back to Kho Muong and staying at Pu Luong Treehouse. Such a great place! Not sure if you have stayed there as it’s recently opened, but definitely a lovely spot to spend a night or three.
Hi Nic,
Sorry to hear about Ban Hieu. They’ve been meaning to build the new road for ages so the route there has always been a bit of a mess, but once you’re in Ban Hieu itself it’s usually still lovely. Although I’m sure that after the road is finished it was leading to quick a lot more construction.
Great tip about the Treehouse – I was right in that area in November but didn’t see it or hear about it, but it looks fantastic. Thanks.
Tom
Hello!
These home stays look amazing! I will be traveling to Hanoi in late November and would love to check out this area. We are planning on renting motorbikes in Hanoi and traveling to this nature preserve. However, I can not find how to reserve a room. Do they take reservations? What is the best way to guarantee that my friend and I can stay at one of these beautiful homes?
Any information would be helpful! Thank you,
Kim
Hi Kimberly,
Yes, the area and the homestays are fantastic, but please read the other comments on this page, because some of the homestays have evolved into boutique eco-lodges, such as Ban Hieu Garden Lodge. You can certainly book these places through their websites, but booking the ‘real’ homestays in advance will be more difficult. Again, read through former comments to find a bit more discussion regarding this. Try not to visit on a weekend as it can get busy then. If you have you own wheels you should be able to ride between the homestays to find one you like and stay there.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Hi Tom and fellow travelers,
Me and my wife have been inspired by your post(s) and plan on heading to the Ban Hieu area when we are in Vietnam this November. We could hire a taxi to take us there from Hanoi but were just wondering if there is a bus or some form of public transport that we could use? Not fans of tour groups and guides – but we are big hikers, so don’t mind walking for up to 6 hours, especially within the nature reserve with offline maps. If there is a bus, where could we jump onto it in Hanoi, and what destination should we look for?
Regards
Fe.
Hi Fe,
You can definitely get public transport to Mai Chau (or at least to the corner of Highway QL6 and 15). From Mai Chau you can hike into Pu Luong Nature Reserve.
In general, Mai Chau is a good place to start your journey towards Ban Hieu.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Thanks for this excellent guide! We recently rode to Bản Hiêu with the plans to try one of the Homestays, and ended up finding one that isn’t mentioned here. As we were riding through the village on the way to Mr. Si and Mr. Ba, Hoai waved us down from his motorbike and asked if we had a place to stay. Since we didn’t, we went back to his family’s house and ended up staying with them for the night.
Hoai speaks English and lives in the one room stilt house with his parents. This is a true local house with no Western touches: there is only an outhouse with a squat toilet and no shower; you bathe in the river. Their house only got electricity less than 10 years ago and there is no wifi, but we did get vinaphone service. Hoai spent the rest of the afternoon as our tour guide, leading us on hikes around the village and showing us the local way of life. The village itself is extremely nice and we had a great time exploring.
In the evening, Hoai’s mother cooked us a wonderful (and huge!) dinner with leaf wrapped spring rolls, meat, veggie and rice. After dinner we spent the evening with the family with some beers and their homemade rice wine. At night the family setup a (firm as expected) mattress on the floor of the house for us with a mosquito net, and the family members slept elsewhere so we had the house to ourselves at night.
Overall we had a fascinating time for our day with Hoai and would recommend his Homestay to anyone looking to visit Bản Hiêu. The price for the night including the great dinner and breakfast was 300,000 VND each. Here is Hoai’s contact info:
Hoai Pu Luong Guide
Co Lung Commune – Ba Thuoc District
Phone: 0125.651.2996
Here is the location of his house: https://goo.gl/maps/jmigxGfC5T82
Hi Rob,
Great to hear that you enjoyed your homestay in Ban Hieu – it is indeed a beautiful area. Thanks for sharing your experience; I’ll take a look at Hoai’s homestay next time I’m in Pu Luong.
Tom
Tom,
I asked my homestay host in Mai Chau about taking me to a homestay in Pu Long, and he wanted 1.5 million! So I wanted to try to find a homestay on my own. Riding through Pu Long on 15C was nice, but I figured I’d just pass through, based on your description of the road to Bản Hiêu.
But from Phố Đoàn it wasn’t too bad. I asked people “Bản Hiêu?” and they understood and pointed me the right way. I wrote it down too in case they couldn’t understand. But making it easier is it is in Google Maps as Làng Chiêu, so that leads you right there.
You have to ford a small river, and I would have turned back at that point, if there wouldn’t have been a guy there pointing me onwards. The road beyond is dirt, but it’s fine as long as it hasn’t rained a lot. In fact, it rained the night I was there, so it was slick and slippery on the way back. I just went slowly and carefully.
Before getting to Bản Hiêu, and probably the worst part of the road, a young guy came out and offered to let me stay in his homestay. The area is really special, and it was an incredible place to spend some time. Thanks for writing this guide.
Hi Terry,
Thanks for the updates of the road conditions there.
It’s great to hear that you enjoyed the area. I agree, it is a special place indeed – let’s hope it stays that way.
Enjoy the rest of your travels in Vietnam.
Tom
Hey I love this post, I am in Hanoi now Aug. 8th 2015 with my wife and I am considering following your route as much as we can. We are traveling by bicycle and was wondering if the route through this national park is doable by bicycle. What do you think? what about the rest of your route to HCMC?
Thanks
Check out our blog at http://www.beforeitsgonejourney.com
Matt
Hi Matt,
Yes, cycling through the nature reserve would be nice, but it’s a steep ascent. I assume your referring to the Limestone Loop. If so that is certainly doable on a bicycle, but read the comments at the bottom of the post for an update about the state of the roads. Also, read the comments at the bottom of this post about the regeneration of Mr Si’s homestay.
Enjoy your trip!
Tom
Hi Tom,
Better late than never. Following your description, i did a short hiking trip to Pu Luong last March. I had been in Dong Van, Meo Vac before and fell in love with their beautiful scenery. You introduced me to the new, unspoiled area. I met only a couple of tourists on the entire day of hiking. Rice farms were still green at the time, compared to extreme Northern areas. The people were nice and welcoming. We were not followed by peddlers like in Sapa (they are charming but never leave me in peace). I wish i could stay longer to take better pictures and spend time to enjoy the peaceful landscape and let the feelings sink in. I hope i can be back soon, before the onslaught of tourists and backpackers :-(.
Here are some of my pictures, as a tribute to your travel stories that helped me enjoy my VietNam trip tremendously:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/83796534@N00/sets/72157649170310623/
Best regards,
Don
Thanks Don.
Glad t hear you had a great trip. Yes, it is a beautiful part of the country. Thanks for your photos – they make me wish I was back in Pu Luong right now.
You’re right, I think because this scenic area is so close to Hanoi it won’t be long before more travellers arrive. But it looks like tourism will be done sensitively and tastefully if the ecolodge mentioned in the comments above is anything to go by.
Tom
Thanks Tom for describing Pu Luong reserve. I went there by chance with a local guide from Ninh Binh in April 2014 and slept in a homestay in the same valley, but a bit further down on the right hand side. I don`t have the reference, but if anybody goes there, it would be worth just knocking on their doors and asking if they accept people. In November 2014, I visited Pu Luong by myself via motorbike from Mai Chau. This time, I stayed at Mr Hy`s place. He has built a few bungalows, so the information in the last post above is correct – it`s now called Les Bain de Hieu Ecolodge. Hieu is actually his son`s name, he is managing the homestay / ecolodge. The place looks absolutely beautiful in reality too (I took some pictures if you`d like one). The bungalows are pricey and I haven`t seen them from inside, but for travellers who look for more comfort that might be the place to be. Mr Hy let my friend and me sleep in the common area for 100,000 VND. Another few friends did the same a couple of months back. Dinner was 180,000 VND if I remember well. The homestay of Mr Ba has the same prices, but the space is by far less beautiful, and the same goes for the toilet / shower. I stayed in both places, because Mr Hy had guests in the bungalows the second day and asked whether it would be OK for us to change. You would have to pay for snacks, drinks and other meals, so you can bring some of that yourself.
If you can`t drive a motorbike, you can try to make your way to the small village of Pho Doan. You can either hire a car and driver from Hanoi, or go by local bus. Mr Hy’s son mentioned that there was a bus.
I can also highly recommend the guide who took me to Pu Luong the first time. His name is Toan, toantourguide@hotmail.com, 0988895266 . He also picks people up in Hanoi. If you google Toan, Ninh Binh and the phone number, you will find more references from other people. His friend (an amazing cook!) and him took my friend and me on their bikes, so it`s ideal if you cannot drive. I`m sure he can also arrange cars. And the journey was lots of fun!
Hi Eva,
Thank you for your updates. This is all very useful information for anyone who is thinking of going to Ban Hieu or other homestays in Pu Luong Nature Reserve, especially if they do not have a motorbike.
It’s good to have both ends of the homestay ‘scale’ available there – The eco-lodge is high-end and Mr Ba is budget 🙂 Personally I like both, and I think that while the eco-lodge is the more comfortable of the two, many people would no longer consider it a homestay, so the more rustic nature of Mr Ba’s might suit them better. I can’t wait to visit the area again, but that probably won’t be until the summer 🙂
Tom
Eva, it’s really nice to hear that you enjoyed your tour with Toan as I’ve booked a three day tour to Pu Luong with him. He was mentioned in several forum posts on Tripadvisor – that’s how I found his contact data in the first place. If you have any recommendations concerning the tour, please let me know 🙂
Gun, I’m also planning to book a Pu Luong tour for september this year but havent done any research yet. Can you give me an idea of how much it costs per person for a 3 day trip?
Thanks, Raks
Hi,
if you’re going by motorbike it’s 48 dollars per day including everything except drinks. It’s a bit pricier if you want to go by car. We’re actually leaving Ninh Binh for Pu Luong tomorrow – I can give you more detailed information after that.
Hi,
I’ll be travelling in Northern Vietnam in two months and thanks to your fantastic blog I’ve decided to spend a couple of days in Pu Luong. Mr. Si’s homestay looks really good and would be my first choice – however, having done some research online and having read the comment above about the high prices, I am wondering if maybe Mr. Si’s homestay is now Les Bain de Hieu Ecolodge?!
Thank you!
Hi Gun,
It does indeed look as though that is the case. Thanks very much from bringing this to everyone’s attention.
I was in the area in September 2014 but hadn’t enough time to make a visit to Ban Hieu to update this post.
So that explains the higher prices! However, it does still look as though it’s very tastefully and sensitively done. Just looking at the photos makes me want to go back right now.
There are still loads of other more ‘rustic’, cheaper homestays to be found in Pu Luong Nature Reserve. Obviously, you can still try Mr Ba’s from the post above, but also have a look at the map (pictured in the post above) for more options spread over the nature reserve. It’s a marvellous area around here; don’t miss it 🙂
Thanks for your information. And please, if you have more updates for this post, do comment again after your trip to Pu Luong.
Tom
Hi Tom,
I agree, the ecolodge does look beautiful, though it’s really expensive … I’d be glad to give you an update on Pu Luong after my travels.
As you seem to know Vietnam pretty well and have visited a lot of places which are off the beaten track: Would it be too much to ask you for some input on my itinerary? I’ll be in Vietnam for 17 nights, travelling between Hanoi and Hoi An. As it’s my first time in the country, I’ll hit some of the tourist spots (Hanoi, Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay, Ninh Binh and surroundings, Hue, Hoi An), but want to do some trekking in beautiful scenery as well. That’s why Pu Luong came to my mind, but I also have another three days left which could be spent in another area. As I can’t drive a motorbike and thus mainly have to rely on public transportation I’m considering Phong Nha Ke Bang or Sapa (I know it’s really touristy, but I’m interested in ethnic minorities), but I’m open to any suggestions. Ha Giang seems amazing but apparently it’s a bit of a pain to get to. Would really appreciate some advise!! Thanks again!
Hi Gun,
I’ve sent you an email to answer your questions. Check your inbox.
Tom
Hi Gun, I`ve posted some ideas for reaching Pu Luong without a motorbike. See the post below!
Its possible to take there some real homestay from minority people?
I mean REAL, no prepared house for tourists..
Hi Milan,
All the homestays in this area are with ‘real’ minority people. But, yes they are set up for tourists to visit – that’s why people know about them in the first place. If you want to stay the night in a minority house that’s not set up for visitors I suggest you just go trekking or motorbiking in this area and when night falls ask if anyone will put you up for the night. Most people in this area are very hospitable and will be willing to host you for a night if there is no other accommodation available nearby. Either walk through Pu Luong Nature Reserve or take a ride on the Limestone Loop.
Good luck,
Tom
Hi Tom,
How much was Mr. Si’s homestay? Someone called for me and was quoted as 1890000 which is $90 per person. That is extremely high. Maybe he meant 189000 which is $9.
Duy
Hi Duy,
Yes, I think he must have meant 189,000vnđ! The only way it could be $90 is if the price included transport to and from Hanoi and all meals and activities, such as treks etc. But I think that’s very unlikely.
Tom
Hi Tom,
I guess you made him too popular but he quoted me a room over $2,500,000 vd per night. That’s like some resort on Phu Quoc!
I think that is sorta rediculous!
Thanks for answering my questions.
Duy
That’s absurd! The only thing I can think is that he thought you wanted to book a whole group of people to stay – otherwise it just doesn’t make any sense.
Well, you can still go to Pu Luong Nature Reserve and stay at other homestays – most of which will be around 200,000vnđ a night, including breakfast. Just make sure you get the map of the reserve (the one in the photo in this post) which has all the homestays marked on it.
Good luck,
Tom
We decided to stay at Mr. Ba. I think my niece and nephews were quite happy with it! I must say the landscape is so beautiful and the food was quite cheap (well there isn’t a choice since there’s no restaurants)!!
Glad you had a good time. Yes, I love the countryside in that area too.
Tom
Hi There,
I enjoy your blog a lot. I’m taking my nieces and nephew to VietNam and they are interested in staying in Mr. Si’s homestay. Does he have a webpage or anything? Currently we are in the US and want to make reservation but I searched the web and haven’t found much. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Duy
Hi Duy,
I don’t think there’s a webpage for Mr Si’s homestay, but you can try the phone number listed on this page. He speaks Vietnamese, French and a little English. You should definitely call ahead because there’s a limited number of spaces and he’s popular! 🙂
Good luck,
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for this awesome blog.
I would know if the homestay owner or someone else organize some trek to other local village for know some ethnic minorities. We will arrive from Hanoi by motorbike.
Thank you
Hi Sara,
Yes, most homestay owners will be able to arrange treks within the nature reserve. The whole area is dotted with minority villages so you’ll have a lot of chances to experience their culture.
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for making this fantastic blog. Your description of the Bản Hiêu homestays are wonderful. I’m wondering if it’s possible to take a xe hom there from Mai Chau? The problem is I don’t know how to ride a motorbike.
Thank you!
Hi Zoe,
Thanks. Yes, it probably is possible to arrange a xe om from Mai Chau to Ban Hieu. You could try asking the family at your homestay (assuming you’re staying in a homestay), if not ask the people at your hotel or guesthouse. You could also try calling the homestays to see what they can do – the numbers are on my blog post about the homestays. However, if it’s been raining a lot the last day or two it maybe difficult to get to Ban Hieu because the last section of road is muddy and slippery.
I hope you can work it out.
Tom
http://gavandnell.blogspot.com/2013/05/good-places-on-web-vietnam-coracle.html