First published April 2024 | Words and photos by Joshua Zukas
Joshua is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. A freelancer whose body of work focuses primarily on travel & architecture, Joshua covers Vietnam regularly for Lonely Planet, Michelin Guide, Insider, Ink Global & many of Asia’s top inflight magazines. He also writes intermittently for publications such as The Economist, Wallpaper & Interior Design Magazine. He holds an MSc in sustainable tourism….read more about Joshua
P’apiu Resort is one of Vietnam’s most indulgent and expensive properties. Sitting atop a forested hill named P’apiu in the local Tày language (hence the apostrophe, which doesn’t exist in Vietnamese script), this all-inclusive resort only has four villas, each one a gigantic refuge in which to luxuriate. Even when the resort is full, you’d probably never know it, as you end up eating, drinking and lounging in and around your villa, all aided by your private butler. Less than an hour’s drive east of Hà Giang City, P’apiu Resort is clearly designed for wealthy Vietnamese honeymooners wanting to escape from it all and do very little. But with a handful of activities, including waterfall visits, village games and a zipline, the property also caters to more active travellers. Interestingly, P’apiu Resort is one of the few properties in Vietnam with a gold standard Travelife sustainability certification. This was awarded for their apparent efforts in minimising environmental impact, improving opportunities for local communities, and safeguarding animal welfare and biodiversity. A note to parents: children under the age of 15 aren’t permitted to stay at the property.
Support My Website
Please donate or become a patron if you enjoy Vietnam Coracle.
Thank you, Tom
[Back Top]
P’APIU RESORT HA GIANG
Address: Yên Định Commune, Bắc Mê District, Hà Giang Province, Vietnam [MAP]
Average Rates: $800-$1,000/night, all inclusive | Reservations: www.papiu.vn
CONTENTS:
*Disclosure: As a writer for several travel publications, Joshua was invited to stay at P’apiu. However, Joshua was not asked by P’apiu to write this review for Vietnam Coracle – or any other publication he contributes to. He has written this review independently of the resort. P’apiu did not see this review before publication nor did they have any influence over its content.
MAP:
P’apiu Resort Hà Giang
The Location: The proprietors of P’apiu Resort own the hill that the property sits on top of, ensuring virtually no intrusions from the world outside. Almost everywhere you look there are thick forests and jagged mountaintops, though you may sometimes spot villages and rivers poking through the foliage down below. This is northern Vietnamese countryside at its very best, with little industry, few roads and a sense of solitude that is becoming increasingly difficult to find. There was a time when many corners of the northern mountains were like this, but most of the more accessible areas are now tarnished by concrete hotels, multilane highways and hydroelectric dams. P’apiu Resort is about 40 minutes east of Hà Giang City on the main road (QL34) that connects the city with Bắc Kạn (Ba Bể Lake), Cao Bằng (Bản Giốc Waterfall) and Lạng Sơn provinces.
Resort Grounds & Layout: It’s difficult to get your head around the geography of P’apiu Resort, as each of the four villas occupies a different natural nook in the hilltop. Three of the villas (The Fluffy, The Mellow and Villa Ravine) perch on the edge of the hill and brandish views; one villa (Layla Quays) and the restaurant are nestled in a kind of jungled hill crater at the centre of the resort. Between the villas and restaurant (which is rarely used as most guests opt for room service) is a network of pathways that leads to some communal areas, like small pavilions, grassy patches and a vegetable garden. One of the most impressive features is the multicoloured brocade road, which is apparently the longest in Vietnam and inspired by textile designs from the surrounding ethnolinguistic groups. Overall, the property, which took seven years to build and houses many thousands of trees, is thoughtfully designed and landscaped. And because it can only accommodate a dozen or so people, it will feel like you have the whole place to yourself. My only criticism is the music. Everywhere you go, melodies that belong in a cheesy spa emanate from hidden speakers, and this detracts from the more appealing sounds of nature, like morning birdsong and rustling leaves.
Activities & Excursions: Other than relaxing in your villa and strolling around the property, there are enough activities and excursions to keep you busy for two, maybe three days. You’ll likely be invited to play ném còn, a game popular with the Tày and other ethnolinguistic groups in the northern mountains. The game involves flinging a ball attached to a rope at a target some 15 metres above the ground. It feels a little contrived as the staff are essentially being paid to play with you, but it’s fun nonetheless. In a nearby Tày village there is a waterfall, which is pretty but small when compared with other cascades in the province, and the staff can take guests there on motorbikes. There’s also a zipline, jacuzzi, outdoor cinema, herbal baths, foot massages and a small exhibition space above the restaurant. If you exhaust all this and crave more to do, the resort can arrange walks and hikes in the surrounding hills. All this is included in the price of the room.
Villas & Décor: Each of the four villas at P’apiu is distinct, and although they are huge, the resort only allows up to two or three people in each one. The Fluffy (400m2) was inspired by Tày architecture, most evident in the wooden stilts. Though it feels dark in parts, it has various corners to relax in, a sauna, and the property’s leafiest private garden. The Mellow (500m2) is a two-room house made of rammed earth, with a spooky underground bathroom and a huge terrace overlooking the mountains. Villa Ravine (1500m2) are a pair of alpine lodge-inspired houses named Sunrise and Sunset. If travelling with another couple, this is the best option as you can share the outside space. This is also probably the most surreal villa, as the décor is straight out of a Grimm Brothers fairy tale. Layla Quays (350m2) is the weirdest, and in my opinion the least appealing. The bulk of this villa is underground with no natural light, but it does have a movie room, wine cellar, and 600 locked boxes where you can store mementoes for up to a year, if that’s your thing.
Eating & Drinking: Breakfast, lunch, dinner and some drinks are included in the cost of the room. You can also request extra snacks like afternoon tea with homemade biscuits. You’ll need to pre-order all your meals, which is done through your personal butler. The menu is an attempt at elevated Vietnamese home cooking, and although the presentation is pretty, the food is similar to what you’ll find in a good homestay, though with higher quality ingredients. This seems like a wise decision, as when it comes to food, it’s always better to aim for decent and succeed than attempt something ambitious and miss the mark. Given the price of a stay at P’apiu Resort, some travellers may expect something more refined, but for me it was just right. Portable tables enable you to eat wherever you like, including in the villa, on the terrace or next to the vegetable garden.
Summary: P’apiu Resort is one of Vietnam’s most unique properties, but it’s also one of the most expensive. It’s the kind of place that will only appeal to travellers with near-limitless budgets, as most will find it difficult to justify the price tag in a country where your money goes so far. The ambition is certainly commendable and the thought that has gone into the property is heartening. Furthermore, the resort (at least according to Travelife) is one of Vietnam’s few sustainable properties. If money isn’t an issue, then P’apiu Resort should be added to the list. And if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime, over-the-top treat, you could probably do a lot worse.
Support My Website
Please donate or become a patron if you enjoy Vietnam Coracle.
Thank you, Tom
*Disclosure: As a writer for several travel publications, Joshua was invited to stay at P’apiu. However, Joshua was not asked by P’apiu to write this review for Vietnam Coracle – or any other publication he contributes to. He has written this review independently of the resort. P’apiu did not see this review before publication nor did they have any influence over its content.
[Back Top]
