Last updated October 2024 | Words and photos by Luke Digweed

Luke Digweed is a staff writer for Vietnam Coracle. He has been living in Vietnam since 2011, mostly in Huế but also in Đà Nẵng & Sài Gòn. While living in Huế, he ran the Huế Grit Tour & co-organized events & small concerts between 2017-2020. His most recent ongoing project is Festivals of Vietnam which documents ceremonies, rituals & processions around the country….read more about Luke

Packed with cool places to hang out, meet up, socialize, bring a date or do some work, the characterful, crumbling, nine-storey apartment block at 42 Nguyễn Huệ Street, in downtown Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), is a vertical chocolate box of independent cafes, fashion boutiques, bars, coworking spaces and international restaurants. Known as the Cafe Apartment, the building functions like a library of stylish haunts: visitors can browse each floor, checking out the décor of each space, before deciding which one to settle into. You could spend an entire day exploring the Cafe Apartment, wandering from floor to floor, up the twisting stone staircase, along the tiled corridors, ducking into any of the businesses that take your fancy. Photogenic, trendy and abuzz with the city’s youth, this old Saigon edifice is reborn. But the building, which is an attraction in itself, sits on prime real estate and has been threatened with demolition. Constructed in the middle of the 20^th century, it housed government personnel, US military advisors, naval officers and shipyard workers at various points in its history. Today, the popularity of the Cafe Apartment is probably the only thing that stands in the way of it being torn down for a new development.

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THE CAFE APARTMENT

A Floor-by-Floor Guide to a Cool & Iconic Landmark

In this complete guide to the Cafe Apartment at No. 42 Nguyễn Huệ Street in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), I’ve written a floor-by-floor overview of the building, including a designated Floor Pick for each storey, highlighting the standout business on that particular level. Every floor, except the Ground Floor, has two wings. Most of the businesses on the south-facing wing, overlooking Nguyễn Huệ Street, have balconies to exploit the city views. The building is served by two staircases: a central staircase for public use and a rear staircase for residents only. Near the public stairwell, there’s also an elevator (3,000vnđ per person) to all floors, but it’s rather slow. (Note that some cafes will refund the elevator fee when you pay your bill: just show them your ticket.) Opening times vary, but most businesses are open all day, with some, such as bars, only functioning in the evening. The entrance to the Cafe Apartment is to the left of Fahasa bookstore (if looking at the building from the street). The nearest parking lot is next door at Lucky Plaza (15,000vnđ per motorbike; closes at midnight).

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CONTENTS:

Map

Ground Floor

First Floor

Second Floor

Third Floor

Fourth Floor

Fifth Floor

Sixth Floor

Seventh Floor

Eighth Floor

Ninth Floor

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Cafe Apartment | No. 42 Nguyễn Huệ, Ho Chi Minh City

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Ground Floor: 

The entire ground floor is occupied by the city’s most renowned bookstore chain, Fahasa. If you’re looking for a book, map, newspaper or magazine, it’s worth browsing the shelves here. The entrance to the Cafe Apartment proper is to the left of the bookstore as you’re looking at the building from Nguyễn Huệ Street. It’s a diminutive entrance, covered in electrical cables and plastered with at least a dozen signs for all the cafes and boutiques that the building houses. Before entering, don’t forget to take a step back into the middle of the pedestrianized central avenue of the street and get a good view of the Cafe Apartment block from the outside. It’s quite a sight, especially at night, when each of the cafes is lit by various forms of colourful lighting: neon strips, LEDs, fairy lights, lanterns and naked light bulbs. Viewing the building from the outside also gives you some idea of the different businesses and which ones you may want to visit. Make a mental note of the names that look particularly appealing because, once you’re inside, it can be quite disorientating. Note: the parking area just inside the entrance is reserved for residents only, not visitors. Parking for visitors can be found at Lucky Plaza next door.

Images of Ground Floor

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First Floor:

As you turn up the first staircase, you’re met by a risqué prohibition-era mural on the adjacent wall. The first floor is almost entirely occupied by PNT Beauty Salon, offering hair washes, waxing and treatments for eyelashes and eyebrows. While the salon itself may not be of interest to everyone, it is a good opportunity to observe the interior design and building materials used to construct the Cafe Apartment: the floor tiles, the glass window panes and the ceiling are all remnants of a disappearing Saigon.

Floor Pick: Krystalini Cocktail Bar. Although the first floor appears spartan, it’s home to a hidden cocktail bar that can only be accessed via the floor above. To get there, take the staircase to the 2^nd floor and turn right; head to the end of the corridor and take the rear staircase back down to the 1^st floor; you’ll reach a revolving bookcase: this is the entrance to Krystalini Cocktail Bar. Ring the bell and wait to be let in. You may be asked for your reservation, but first-time visitors are forgiven for arriving without a booking. Krystalini is a dimly lit, speakeasy-style cocktail bar with a range of upholstered, rose-red couches and bar stools. The cocktail menu includes classics and signatures.

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Images of First Floor

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Second Floor:

The second floor is where the fun begins and this is the floor that best illustrates the commercial diversity of the Cafe Apartment. At the furthest end of the south-facing wing is Gốm x Nicotin, a fantastic pottery workshop-cum-cafe (see Floor Pick below). The Indian House, run by popular Indian chain operator Benjaras, has a well-furnished balcony to enjoy some delicious Indian snacks and masala tea. On the second floor’s rear wing, calorie-conscious diners may be interested in a green-laden poke bowl at Poke Saigon. Vietnamese cuisine can be found at Bún Đậu Tràng An Quán which serves up good bún đậu mắm tôm and other favourite Hanoi dishes in the corridor from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. (The owner, Hiền, doesn’t speak English but the menu has translations.) Curious visitors may be interested in stepping into Tình Lâm Trang Sức Phong Thủy, a boutique specializing in feng shui jewelry considered powerful in the practice of geomancy. Finally, don’t forget that the rear staircase on this floor leads to Krystalini Cocktail Bar on the floor below (see Floor Pick for the first floor). 

Floor Pick: Gốm x Nicotin Cafe & Workshop. This light and beautifully designed space is one of the best coffee shops in the Cafe Apartment. Most, if not all, of the furniture and flooring are made from repurposed wood. Despite being in the middle of the city and its tobacco-inspired name, this is a calming, laid-back and natural-feeling space to be in. Nicotin manages the food and drink while Gốm facilitates the pottery and art workshops. This is a great place to do some work, play a board game or chat with friends. Visitors are welcome to join pottery workshops for a fee.

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Third Floor:

The third floor is packed with places to try. Turn left at the staircase landing and continue to the far end for Downtown Steakhouse, an out-and-out American restaurant with an American-sized menu of steaks, burgers, pastas, sandwiches and more; a dining experience suitable for the homesick cowboy or a family with fussy children (soft and hard drinks are also available). Oops is a clean and clinical coffee shop specializing in milk tea, coconut coffee and Taiwanese cakes, and Dosh is a boutique doughnut shop covered in the Floor Pick (see below). Next door, Meraki Cafe is a chain of kitsch coffee shops represented on three different floors of the Cafe Apartment. The interior design is a favourite for selfie-takers. For this reason, staff are keen impress upon customers that they must buy a drink if they want to take photos. Unfortunately, this can lead to a rather aggressive sales push. As you turn right from the staircase, the incredibly popular HẠC organic cosmetics shop is worth a visit and ideal for souvenir shopping. (HẠC’s twin location on the fifth floor is my Floor Pick.) Next door is L’étranger, also named O.N Workshop, a women’s designer fashion boutique specializing in products by Vietnamese brands L’Ete bags, L’étranger and Bleu De Saigon. 

Floor Pick: Dosh. Specializing in doughnuts, juices and coffee, Dosh is a mini-chain that will appeal to anyone with a sweet tooth. Doughnuts range from the familiar to the obscene, with a creative and ever-changing menu of flavours, shapes and sizes. I enjoyed the decadent, double-decker doughnut named ‘Marvelous Craquelin Jasmine’.

Images of Third Floor

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Fourth Floor:

Turn left at the landing on the fourth floor and you’ll see Meraki coffee shop’s second outlet in the building. Skip past that and you’ll reach % Arabica, a sophisticated, no-nonsense coffee shop that reminds me of a walk-in refrigerator. % Arabica is part of a Japanese multinational chain, including locations in Jordan and New York. This outlet opened in 2022 and is the company’s first branch in Vietnam (their second recently opened near the Central Post Office). Espresso blends, drip coffees and soft cream are all available. Their coffee is 100% arabica beans; no robusta is used. There’s also some well-designed merch for sale. 21Grams is a vegetarian restaurant serving set lunches and dinners. Dishes are a fusion of East and Southeast Asian cuisines. Their vegetarian Japanese curry is very good. At the end of the corridor, the bizarre, English-themed tea shop Partea is my Floor Pick (see below). At the back wing of the fourth floor The E.Y.E is a souvenir shop selling a range of wicker, woven and tote bags with screen-printed graphics and puns in both English and Vietnamese. Mugs and hats are available too. The shop only accepts cards and bank transfers. Only have cash? Tough luck, luddite! The last door on the right is Closete, a thrift store dealing in women’s clothes and records. It’s only open to female visitors. A back door leads to a newly-opened cocktail bar named Paddy-Noddy (opens 5pm), which the owner describes as a bar dedicated to the Saigon fashion industry.

Floor Pick: Partea. If you’re a cash-carrying, unfashionable male, you may find the fourth floor somewhat uncomfortable. If so, I urge you to succumb to the gentle embrace of a liquid panacea at Partea, an over-the-top, English-style tea room. Partea provides a perspective on what Britain looks like from the outside, which can be an uncanny, jarring experience for a British person, such as myself. First, customers choose their variety of tea (there’s an encyclopedic selection), then their own English-themed teapot, their own crockery and cakes, and then find a cosy, memorabilia-filled corner in which to enjoy them.

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Fifth Floor:

Left of the stairwell, Saigon Ơi is a spacious, elegantly furnished, bright and attractive cafe, suitable for both work and play. There’s a large balcony, wooden floors, potted plants and hanging lanterns. Drinks and sweets are on offer – the cakes are especially enticing. Saigon Ơi’s crisp interior décor and friendly service attract a young, arty crowd. This is one of the better cafes in the building. Nearby is the third branch of Meraki cafe. If you turn right at the stairwell, you’ll see The Boulevard, a small, dimly lit cocktail bar. Inside, an intimate ambience is created by hospitable bar staff and friendly clientele. The Boulevard’s cocktails are reasonably priced and there’s an emphasis on domestic and regional liquors. Aside from classic cocktails, bartenders are keen to create custom drinks for patrons depending on their personal tastes. Next door is the building’s best Vietnamese restaurant, Madam Quyên, which has two locations in the Cafe Apartment. (I cover Madam Quyên’s restaurant as my Floor Pick on the sixth floor in this guide.) At the end of the corridor is HẠC Organic (see Floor Pick below).

Floor Pick: HẠC Organic. Packed with all things cosmetic-related, HẠC prides itself on all products being organic and produced in Vietnam. Their shop is always busy with people looking for gifts or souvenirs for friends and family. Items include soaps, candles, moisturizers, fragrances, accessories, make-up and much more. Staff are welcoming, English-speaking, and knowledgeable about the products. This is an ideal spot for gift-hunting.

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Sixth Floor:

Turn left at the sixth floor landing and you’ll see The Letter, which functions as a coffee shop as well as a fashion boutique with some cosmetics for sale too. (The Letter has a second location on the seventh floor.) To the right of the staircase is Madam Quyên’s, which is my Floor Pick (see below) and the mysterious 6even, which appears to my some kind of boutique hotel room, but was closed on all my visits.

Floor Pick: Madam Quyên. A family-run restaurant inspired by the culinary specialities of Vietnam’s three regions (north, central, south), Madam Quyên is a delicious introduction to some of the country’s most popular and iconic dishes. The atmosphere is low-key and the staff are very welcoming. Prices are slightly higher than average, but the quality is very good. The menu includes classic dishes, such as cơm tấm, bún chả, bánh xèo, bánh mì, bánh cuốn, gỏi cuốn and some vegetarian equivalents. Drinks include juices, coconut coffee, salt coffee and egg coffee. The walls are decorated with drawings and messages from satisfied previous customers from around the world. The open kitchen layout means that you can watch your food being prepared.

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Seventh Floor:

The right side of the staircase on the seventh floor is residential, but on the left side there’s Buihaus (see Floor Pick below) and Michi Sushi, the building’s only Japanese restaurant. Michi Sushi features a range of Japanese dishes at prices that are quite reasonable for downtown Saigon. The décor is vibrant and cartoonish and the balcony is a pleasant place for an evening meal.

Floor Pick: Buihaus. One of the few places in the Cafe Apartment that has endured its decade-long boom in popularity, Buihaus means ‘sharing house’. A range of soft drinks, beers and some DIY cocktails are available, as well as ice cream, cakes and desserts. The space has a rundown yet homely feel. Indeed, Buihaus is the home of Trâm and her teenage son Bean (as in ‘Mr. Bean’). As such, Buihaus blurs the line between business and private residence: there’s a bedroom and bathroom at the opposite end to the public balcony; and the guests’ seating area doubles up as Bean’s study space. Bean is an extroverted young man and openly curious about the customers at Buihaus. On my first visit here, Bean was keen to show me the electronic music he had produced and we even had an impromptu guitar jam together (he’s well-versed in old rock and roll music). I asked Bean what he would want to tell people reading this article: 

“I think that visitors to the Cafe Apartment should explore all the shops. Don’t just go to the big-name ones, but remember the little ones too. Besides, I’ve been to one of those shops with my friends and honestly, I think we make better drinks.“

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Eighth Floor:

Turn left at the landing on the eighth floor and there are two similarly themed coffee shops, The Letter and Good Day Coffee, both of which have twin locations on the 6th and 9th floor respectively. Besides them, there’s Saigon Fast, a nail and hair salon. The only business on the rear wing of the eighth floor is Pờ Coffee (see Floor Pick below).

Floor Pick: Pờ Coffee. Possibly the coolest coffee shop in the Cafe Apartment, what Pờ Coffee lacks in views, it more than makes up for in vibe. The décor replicates a recent trend among domestic coffee shops of retrofitting items and aesthetics from Vietnam’s post-war era and reimagining them within the 21^st-century urban vernacular. The drinks menu has a few creative surprises, such as salt-milk Japanese matcha and pineapple ginseng coffee.

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Ninth Floor:

One might think that the ninth floor, with its sweeping city and river views, would be the most sought-after commercial space in the building. However, this is not the case. In fact, the ninth floor is the most residential of all the levels of the Cafe Apartment. On the left side of the staircase are the second locations of both Good Day Coffee and The E.Y.E. The former has a good balcony with excellent views and a dependable selection of coffee, smoothies, juices and teas. The latter sells a smaller but more colourful selection of the same products as its twin location on the fourth floor (they only accept card payments; no cash). Further along is Quán Nhà (see my Floor Pick below) and Ruby Beauty, a small salon and spa specializing in nail and hair treatments. The right side of the stairwell is occupied by private residences. There are signs for 4K Hostel, which gets decent reviews online, but the door was locked during my visits and I was not able to contact the management.

Floor Pick: Quán Nhà. This north Vietnamese restaurant is run by warm-welcoming apartment resident Nhân, who is originally from the north-central province of Thanh Hóa, but moved to Ho Chi Minh City and has been living in the Cafe Apartment building since 1989. Quán Nhà serves a range of dishes suitable for solo diners or small groups. Nhân has turned her apartment living room into a diner and her personal kitchen doubles up as the restaurant’s. Nhân says she can cook a range of Southeast Asian dishes, having worked under different chefs in different restaurants. Her eatery has no consistent opening hours; it’s simply a matter of catching Nhân at home and convincing her to cook for you! It’s best to call ahead: +84 779 666 396.

Images of Ninth Floor

*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Luke has written this guide because he wants to: he likes the Cafe Apartment and he wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page

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