Last updated May 2024 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle
Tom Divers is the founder and creator of Vietnam Coracle. He’s lived, travelled and worked in Vietnam since 2005. Born in London, he travelled from an early age, visiting over 40 countries (he first visited Vietnam in 1999). Now, whenever he has the opportunity to make a trip, he rarely looks beyond Vietnam’s borders and his trusty motorbike, Stavros. Read more about Tom on the About Page, Vietnam Times and ASE Podcast.
The Western Ho Chi Minh Road twists and turns through jungle-cloaked mountains along the Lao border for a 240km between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha. This is one of the most spectacular rides in Vietnam, but the route is so isolated that there’s hardly any accommodation or gas stations for most of its length. Until quite recently, it was necessary to carry an extra bottle of petrol and, if you wanted to spend the night, a tent. These days things have changed, but riders still need to plan carefully for time and fuel so as not to be caught out. The village of Long Sơn sits in a beautiful limestone valley on the Long Đại River roughly halfway between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road. The village has a good budget hotel and a gas station, making Long Sơn the ideal place to break the journey along the Western Ho Chi Minh Road.
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HOTEL & GAS STATION IN LONG SON
Two Essential Conveniences on One of the Best Riding Roads in Vietnam
A great boon for motorbikers, the hotel and gas station on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road at Long Sơn has changed the dynamic of riding one of Vietnam’s most spectacular roads. In this guide, I’ve included an annotated map of Long Sơn, a description of the village, the hotel and the gas station and some photos. (For more guides about the region, see Related Posts.)
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Long Sơn: Hotel & Gas Station | Western Ho Chi Minh Road
Long Sơn Village:
Almost halfway between between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha, Long Sơn is a hamlet on a meander in the Long Đại River as it passes through large limestone karsts. The setting is marvelous. Running clear and blue, the Long Đại (Great Dragon) River is ideal for bathing. Watching its turquoise water pass slowly beneath the limestone crags – with water buffalo wading waist deep, wooden fishing sampans floating on the current and children playing on the banks – is an idyllic scene.
Located 140km north of Khe Sanh and 100 south of Phong Nha (and Khe Gát), Long Sơn (Mountain Dragon) is one of only a few settlements on the entire length on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road, and it is the most beautifully situated. The landscape that the Western Ho Chi MInh Road passes before and after Long Sơn is utterly sublime. In fact, it’s so good that most riders will want to stop dozens of times on the road to admire the views, go on short hikes and bathe in the streams and waterfalls. In addition, the road is extremely mountainous – full of twist and turns, like a knotted ball of string. For these reasons, riding the whole 240km length of the Western Ho Chi Minh Road in one day can take many hours and, although it’s certainly possible to complete the ride in a day, it is much more pleasurable and satisfying to spread it over 2 full days on the road. This is why the hotel and gas station at Long Sơn is such a great asset for motorbikers on the Western Ho Chi MInh Road.
Hotel & Gas Station:
Located on the west side of the road at the centre of Long Sơn hamlet, Hotel Trường Thành is set back in a concrete courtyard shaded by mango trees. A box-like structure with lots of impressive wooden embellishments, the hotel is run by a friendly family. Inside, it’s immaculately clean, spacious and empty. There are two floors of double and twin rooms equipped with everything you want, need and expect from a classic Vietnamese nhà nghỉ (guest house): the beds are good and firm, linen is bright and clean, there’s a fan, functioning air-con, WiFi, T.V and a window (some have pleasant garden views), and a simple bathroom with hot water and bad plumbing as standard. In short, rooms are simple, spotless, sparsely but adequately furnished, and cheap. At the time of research, room rates were 300,000vnd ($12) per night, but on weekends and public holidays you might find the price goes up a bit. (Rates do not include breakfast.) There is another guest house, Đức Tuấn, on the opposite side of the road to Trường Thành Hotel, but it was closed during my last visit.
You can call ahead (0844 870 151 or 0915 256 892) to make a reservation, but you’ll need to speak some Vietnamese in order to do so (it’s not possible to book online). In general, there shouldn’t be any problem just turning up in the late afternoon and finding a room available. The only time this might not be the case is on weekends or public holidays, when there may be more roadtrippers than usual passing through or perhaps a motorbike tour group staying at the hotel.
Long Sơn only has one or two quite basic rice and noodle eateries (cơm phở) along the main street as well as a few shops selling snacks, drinks and useful items, such as rain jackets and batteries. Walking around the backstreets of Long Sơn village in the evening or early morning is quite pleasant. If the weather’s good, bring your swimwear and have a dip in the Long Đại River at the local bathing spot.
The gas station is on the east side of the road just as you enter town from the south. This is particularly convenient, because it is the only place to fill up with petrol between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha (or Khe Gát), apart from Hướng Phùng. That’s 240km with only two gas stations, either of which could be closed (for lunch or because the petrol has run out), so it’s important to make sure you fill your tank when you get the chance. Long Sơn hamlet also has a couple of motorbike mechanic shops (sửa xe), that could come in handy if you’re having bike problems.
*Disclosure: I never receive payment for anything I write: my content is always free and independent. I’ve written this guide because I want to: I like Long Sơn and I want my readers to know about it. For more details, see my Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
I stayed at this guest house on my HCMC-Hanoi trip last December. We initially were headed to the other one on Google Maps but the gate was locked. We decided to go down the road a bit more and we found this guest house.
The owners were great and had rooms available. Pretty bog standard guest room. Hard bed, A/C worked well, bathroom had standard plumbing. The highlight was the fantastic dinner they made for us. There was a group of local fishermen who were celebrating the big catch they had earlier that day. I got roped into their group and fed tons of Huda beer, more fish than I knew what to do with, and stayed up until 3am singing karaoke I didn’t understand a single word of. Needless to say, it was a great night!
I’m head back to Vietnam in November to do a hybrid of the Tigit route and your “Big One” route over about 6-7 weeks. I am super excited!
Hi Seth,
Yes, the Truong Thanh Hotel is newer and a better option that the old Duc Tuan Hotel, which appears to be permanently closed now.
With regards to your November trip, I have just finished a long research trip for new Saigon-Hanoi routes and will be writing, mapping and publishing the new routes this year. So look out for those if you’re interested.
Best,
Tom
Tom,
I eagerly await this updated guide! Three weeks was a good introduction, but I was limited by the 30-day visa. This time I’ll have 2.5 months to explore. I’m coming from working in Antarctica for 9 months, so I’m ready for some heat and wind in my face! Thanks so much.
I rode from Ha Noi to Ho Chi Minh in January on a stepthru Honda Future. I absolutely loved it. I had been along most of the coast on previous trips, so stayed to the west most of the way south. I can fully agree that it is some of the best riding I have encountered, and I have ridden in a lot of countries around the world. I’ll be back to do some more exploring. Some of the “roads” that Google maps put me down were downright interesting, and at times I was wondering if I’d ever get back to civilization. Great fun
Hi Paul,
Glad to hear you enjoyed riding the Ho Chi Minh Road and I hope you get a chance to explore more on two wheels again.
Best,
Tom
Is the Duc Tuan Guest house still operating?
Hi Jeff,
I’m not certain, but according to other comments here there’s another hotel option there anyway.
Best,
Tom
Much appreciate the info a chara. This gives us a plan b if the weather changes. Got bike serviced with reception help at Phong Nha Farm Stay (highly recommend a visit) & requested a 1.5litre spare bottle of juice should we require it. Thanks again much appreciated. 2 Eire riders
Hi John & Fiona,
I hope you enjoy the ride!
Best,
Tom
Hey Tom,
Currently in Long Son ( from phong nha) staying at this hotel so wanted to give an update. The woman charged 250,000 for the room. The beds super hard but there is AC in the room. The hotel up the road (Truong Thanh Hotel) charges 300,000. The gas station in town was closed when I looked, but the woman told me I can get gas up the street (bottled im assuming).
Hi Neal,
That’s great, thanks for the update! I’m glad it’s still open, even if the beds are hard 🙂
Best,
Tom
Yessir. Also, the small road right off the highway as your coming into Long Son (north to south) was absolutely stunning. Check it out if you havent!
Thanks, Neal. Sounds great, I look forward to checking it out next time I’m in the area.
Tom
I stayed there with two friends yesterday night. It was still cheap and we could check-in without booking in advance, but it wasn’t clean at all. So better prepare for a disgusting bed and bring your own sleeping bag.
Hi Phil,
Thanks for the update. I’m glad it’s still open, even though it’s not a great accommodation 🙂
Sounds like it’s better to try the other (newer) guest house in the village instead.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Doing my research for my upcoming trip. On Google Maps it says the hotel is permanently closed. Any idea if this is really the case? (Google misses the ball sometimes). In any case there should be a new place ‘Nhà Nghỉ Trường Thành’ just around the bend.
Hi Maikel,
Yes, a couple of people have recently mentioned that new place to stay. Check out the comment on this page about it.
Best,
Tom
Just a heads up for anyone hoping to stay here post-COVID. We tried to stay here last week (around June 15), but the hotel is not accepting foreigners. Fortunately we called in advance to find this out. I would recommend doing the same.
Hi Mike,
Thank you for the update. That’s a shame. I hope it won’t be long before they start accepting foreign guests again – in fact, I think it’s possible they might already be legally required to do so. Anyway, I’m sure it won’t be long.
Tom
We would like to stay here but the phone numbers do not seem to be the right ones… does anyone know if we could just go there?
Hi Meike,
I was there a couple of weeks ago and used the numbers in this post to call ahead and book a room, so I think the numbers should still be right. Try again later. If you can’t book in advance you’ll probably still be able to get a room – it’s a small hotel but there still aren’t many people there. Try to get there a bit earlier in the day if you can.
I hope this helps,
Tom
My hostel receptionist just called to book a room for my girlfriend and I. The 094 9522331 number worked and the price is just above 10usd per night for one bed.
Great. Thanks, Tony.
Just rode the trail April 2018. Stayed at Duc Tuan. Good enough for a night’s rest. The owner was not very friendly at first, but she warmed up after I threw some silly expressions into Google Translate. She kept my passport for the night, which I wasn’t very comfortable with, but I didn’t get the sense that she would run off with it. Also, more importantly, there are two full service gasoline stations, one about 1 mile south of Duc Tuan Hotel, and another about 17 miles south on the trail. Both are fully functional (I filled up there), and both are labeled on maps.me
Hi David,
Glad to hear you stayed there and thanks for the info about the new gas stations.
It’s common practice for most accommodations to keep guest’s passports, except at mid-high end hotels, so don’t worry about that.
Tom
Long Sơn is Sino-Vietnamese for Dragon Mountain.
Hi,
Yes, thank you, I am aware of that. But in the article I refer to the name of the river, Long Đại, which I think is Sino-Vietnamese for Great Dragon, would you agree?
Tom
When I was there I was the only guest :). But maybe now more people will stay there after your post.
I do agree that this is very convenient to have this hotel there – while it’s perfectly possible to do the whole 220 km in one day, the route is so beautiful that it’s nice not to hurry and stop here or there to enjoy the views.
Hi Antoni,
Yes, I agree: it’s possible to ride the whole way in a day, but it’s much nicer to take your time and spend two days riding it instead.
Tom
This is exactly the reason I subscribe to your posts – I love finding out about little unknown places in the middle of nowhere. That shows a true passion. Keep on sharing!
Thanks, David.
It’s great to hear that you enjoy this kind of place as much as I do 🙂
Tom