First published July 2024 | Words and photos by Joshua Zukas
Joshua is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. A freelancer whose body of work focuses primarily on travel & architecture, Joshua covers Vietnam regularly for Lonely Planet, Michelin Guide, Insider, Ink Global & many of Asia’s top inflight magazines. He also writes intermittently for publications such as The Economist, Wallpaper & Interior Design Magazine. He holds an MSc in sustainable tourism….read more about Joshua
Tớ Dày Du Già Village is a rustic mountain lodge perched on a dimpled hillock in the fairy-tale hamlet of Du Già in Hà Giang Province. A thatched stilt house made mostly of wood and other natural materials, the lodge’s aesthetic draws from the vernacular architecture of the Tày, an ethnolinguistic group that typically live near lakes, rivers and waterfalls. The property takes full advantage of Du Già’s ethereal setting, offering near-panoramic vistas of the karst mountains, rice terraces and a rocky stream that meanders through the valley below. The views are especially alluring on a clear morning, when you can observe the rising sun peaking over the mountaintops.
Your first impression will likely be that of a homestay, with hostel-style bedrooms, shared bathrooms and generous homecooked meals. But despite its rustic, communal charm, the property is actively going in a more upmarket direction, recently adding tented ensuite bungalows and even pushing a new pseudonym: Tớ Dày Retreat. In truth, this is neither a homestay nor a luxury retreat: instead, Tớ Dày Du Già Village is a well-run and good-value boutique(ish) mountain lodge with a decent range of room options, elevated home cooking and one of the best locations in the valley. While most visitors are only in Du Già for one night – usually as part of the Hà Giang Loop – the extraordinary scenery is such that you might consider extending your stay at this comfortable and well-positioned accommodation. [BOOK HERE]
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TỚ DÀY DU GIÀ VILLAGE
Address: Du Gìa Village, Yên Minh District, Hà Giang Province, Vietnam [MAP]
Average Rates: $6-$30/night
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MAP:
Tớ Dày Du Gìa Village | Hà Giang
The Location: Tớ Dày Du Già Village’s location might be its biggest asset. It’s far enough away from the dusty main village to feel remote, but it is still easily accessible (by motorbike) along a country lane and short spur dirt path. The highlight of the property’s location, however, is that it’s a mere 30-minute walk to Du Già Waterfall, probably the area’s most popular point of interest (see Activities below for information on how to get to the waterfall). Tớ Dày Du Già Village is less than 3km from Du Già market, which is in the centre of the village. From the market it should take less than 10 minutes to drive to the lodge on a motorbike, passing Du Gia Panorama and Tom’s Du Gia Homestay on your way. Du Già is 70-80km from Hà Giang City, and is best accessed by road QL4C that heads north from the city. Road QL34, which strikes east from Hà Giang city, will lead to DT176, which will be under construction for many years. I do not advise taking this route unless you have a dirt bike.
Resort Grounds & Surrounds: Tớ Dày Du Già Village sits on a knoll a little less than 3km west of road DT176. The lodge is essentially just one two-storey building with some nearby tented bungalows in a large grassy garden. The ground floor of the lodge holds the covered dining room, outside terrace, one of the private rooms and communal, hot-water bathrooms (separated between male and female). The upper room has dorm beds and two further private rooms. There are also large lockers for those sleeping in the shared space wanting to lock away their belongings. There are almost no other hotels or homestays in sight, and although the land surrounding the lodge is cultivated, it remains a very natural and peaceful spot. Noise interference from neighbouring homestays and hotels should be minimal. There is also a nearby stilt house where the staff seem to live.
Activities: The area surrounding Tớ Dày Du Già Village is undeniably beautiful, but there isn’t a whole lot to do independently other than visit the waterfall and stroll around the village. If you’re seeking solitude, I recommend getting up early to watch the sunrise from the terrace and then walk to the waterfall to enjoy the morning light. The small cascade sports a few bars and can get busy – and sometimes messy – in the late afternoon, but in the early morning you’ll likely have the place to yourself. From Tớ Dày Du Già Village, there’s a narrow footpath that leads past the tented bungalows to a rocky river crossing. Hop over the river and you’ll soon be at the country lane that leads up towards the karst mountains and culminates at the waterfall. If in doubt, ask the staff. It’s also possible to drive to the waterfall, where there is a small parking lot and a kind of visitor centre selling basic snacks and meals. To visit the village, simply walk towards DT176 and look out for offshoot dirt paths. There’s more concrete as you get closer to the road, but most of the houses exhibit harmonious Tày stilt house architecture. In my experience, the locals are friendly and welcoming, and they shouldn’t mind you wandering around and getting a little lost. Tớ Dày Du Già Village can also help arrange guided treks and perhaps some fishing and farming activities if they have enough staff on hand. If you’d like more of an organised tour, message them ahead of time on Facebook.
Guest Rooms & Décor: There is a surprising number of room types considering the size of this little lodge: single dorm beds, double dorm beds, double bedrooms (no bathroom), deluxe double bedroom (with bathroom) and glamping bungalows. At the time of research, there were nine single dorm beds ($7), two double dorm beds ($13) and two double bedrooms ($16; 20m2) on the upper floor. The shared bathroom is on the ground floor, so you’ll need to navigate the stairs to shower, etc. The mattresses and bedding across the different room and bed types are clean and comfortable. Note that the double bedrooms don’t offer a huge amount of privacy, as they are only separated from the rest of the dorm by a flimsy wooden door. The singular ensuite deluxe double bedroom ($26; 40m2) is on the ground floor and may suffer from noise interference from the adjacent dining room. The quietest, most comfortable and most expensive option is one of the four cosy glamping bungalows ($60; 30m2), which offer private bathrooms, a serene garden setting and some distance from the lodge. When full, the lodge should have no more than 27 guests.
Eating & Drinking: A simple breakfast is included in the price and is the same for everyone, regardless of room type. This is essentially a homestay-style breakfast – expect instant noodles, eggs and bread and possibly pancakes with honey if you’re lucky. In theory, you need to order lunch and dinner several hours in advance. If you use an online travel agent (OTA) like Agoda to book your room, it’s a good idea to message the lodge on Facebook and tell them you want meals. However, when I was there a small group rocked up without a reservation and still managed to secure a delicious dinner. The menu is probably more complicated than it needs to be. You can choose from hotpot (three people minimum); a homestay meal with grilled meat; and a homestay meal without grilled meat. You can also pay for extra dishes. The food is tasty but prices are a little higher than other homestay meals in the province. Outside of mealtimes it should be possible to order instant noodles, beer, soft drinks, Vietnamese coffee, tea and basic snacks to enjoy on the terrace.
Summary: As of 2024, Tớ Dày Du Già Village is probably one of the most comfortable places to stay in Du Già. However, if you’re looking for a homestay – and there are plenty of these in Du Già – and you want to support locally-owned businesses, you might consider looking elsewhere. The staff, who are friendly and polite but operate like employees and not hosts, say that the property is owned and managed by a Hanoian. On the whole, however, Tớ Dày Du Già Village is an example of a small-scale mountain lodge run well. It’s clean, the food is delicious and the setting is exceptional. For a refreshingly underdeveloped destination like Du Già, there isn’t much more you could ask for.
*To check rates & make a booking for Tớ Dày Du Gìa Village please BOOK HERE
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Joshua has written this review because he wants to: he likes this homestay and he wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
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