The Harvest Route: Mù Cang Chải

First published 2014 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle

Colour & pattern, Mu Cang Chai rice terracesEvery year, between September and October, the terraced rice fields of Mù Cang Chải, a rural district in northern Vietnam’s Yên Bái Province, put on a show of picturesque harvest colours. In the fresh, dew-brushed dawn, hundreds of stepped rice fields, carved into the contours of steep valleys, are illuminated by the autumn sun. The golden-green and toast-brown colours of the ripe rice are luminous. The curving terraces, although man-made, appear to be in complete harmony with the landscape, creating a hypnotic patterning across the hills and valleys. I call this spectacle the ‘Theatre of Rice’. Although well-known to most Vietnamese, Mù Cang Chải doesn’t get a mention in popular English-language guidebooks. A good way to see the ‘show’ is to drive the scenic section of Road 32 from Tú Lệ town to just west of Mù Cang Chải town. I call this the ‘Harvest Route’. It takes in 50km of picture-book scenery, including the lofty Khau Phạ Pass. There are hotels in both Tú Lệ and Mù Cang Chải towns. Below are my photos of the ‘Theatre of Rice’ and my map of the ‘Harvest Route’.


Time: 6:30am

The dawn sun creeps over the valley walls, shedding light on the rice terraces.

First light of dawn

Time: 6:45am

The early sun turns the rice a pale toast-brown.

Warm early light on the rice

Time: 7:00am

Minority women make their way into the fields to begin a morning of work that often begins with a long walk.

Work begins in the fields

Time: 7:15am

By now the morning sun fills the whole valley, revealing the extent of the rice terraces.

The sun-filled valley

Time: 7:30am

Small huts dot the landscape offering shelter and storage space to farmers during the harvest.

Shelter & storage huts

Time: 7:45am

Work begins in the fields. A minority woman stands atop a terrace, looking down to the river in the valley below.

A minority woman in the fields

Time: 8:00am

Seen from the Khau Pha Pass, the terraces look like a ‘rice glacier’ slowly sliding down the hillside.

View from the Khau Pha Pass

Time: 8:15am

As it gets later, you’ll find you’re not the only spectator enjoying the ‘rice show’.

Other 'spectators'

Time: 8:30am

While others watch, work in the fields goes on, with only rudimentary machinery and buffaloes to help.

Hard work & no machinery

Time: 8:45am

This is the real star of the show: rice. Vietnam is the world’s second largest exporter.

Star of the show: rice

Time: 9.00am

The sun is higher now. The dew has gone but a morning chill lingers. The colours get warmer, even if the air doesn’t.

Higher sun, warmer colours

Time: 9:15

Mid-way through their morning’s work it’s good to see these women enjoying a break.

Taking a break

RELATED CONTENT: Hoi An: Lantern Festival | Dalat’s Waterfalls | Phu Quoc’s Beaches | Sapa-Sin Ho Scenic Loop

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The ‘Harvest Route': Mù Cang Chải District, Yên Bái Province

View ‘Mu Cang Chai’ in a LARGER MAP

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Selected Resources for Travellers & Expats:  What's this?

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10 Responses to The Harvest Route: Mù Cang Chải

  1. Arnaud says:

    Hi Tom,
    Back in VN, and this time I am doing the Northwest loop, from Hanoï to Lao Cai, through Mai Chau, Nghia Lo, Mu Cang Chai, Sapa, and I hope Sinho and Bac Ha depending on the weather conditions, using part of your itineraries of course.

    Today I did the Harvest road, but unfortunately it was a rainy day. When I arrived to MCC, the sun arrived. Just dropped by bag to my homestay and went back on the road to go back and forth to the pass. Amazing scenery. The paradise of rice paddies lovers and photographers!!! Thanks again for your website on which I discovered Mu Can Chai.

    By the way, for those who don’t want to stay in Nha nghi on the main road, there is a couple of charming wood made homestays next to each other, right after the bridge at the center of the town. Cross the bridge, turn left and continue on 300m. Three houses with chinese lanterns are just there. Cost 400,000 dong per night incl. a great dinner, breakfast and wifi!!! Much better option in my opinion.


  2. Chris says:

    I’m heading up to Sapa in a few days and thinking of passing through Mu Cang Chai. Will there be much to see at this time of year, or have I missed it? Thanks!

  3. Pingback: The Limestone Loop: Motorbike Guide » Vietnam Coracle

  4. Connor says:

    Currently in Hanoi planning on riding all the way down to saigon along a variation of the “classic route” posted on the site. Just wondering if it would be worth taking a few days to detour up north to see these terraces. I would be heading there at the beginning of july. You mentioned harvest isnt until september and october, so what’re your thoughts?

  5. Raina says:

    Thinking of going here in October. How far is it from Hanoi?

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