Last updated September 2024 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle | 287 comments

Tom Divers is the founder and creator of Vietnam Coracle. He’s lived, travelled and worked in Vietnam since 2005. Born in London, he travelled from an early age, visiting over 40 countries (he first visited Vietnam in 1999). Now, whenever he has the opportunity to make a trip, he rarely looks beyond Vietnam’s borders and his trusty motorbike, Stavros. Read more about Tom on the About Page, Vietnam Times and ASE Podcast.
One of the most famous road names in the world, the Ho Chi Minh Road traverses the mountainous western spine of Vietnam – abutting both Cambodia and Laos – connecting Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in the south with Hanoi in the north. Not to be confused with the Ho Chi Minh Trail (most of which is actually in Laos), the Ho Chi Minh Road is fully paved along its entire 1,880km length, offering an unbroken stretch of road from south to north through some of the most spectacular scenery in Vietnam. At its best, the Ho Chi Minh Road is a thread of asphalt winding into the distance with such organic grace that it appears part of the natural landscape. Although ‘Ho Chi Minh Road’ is a name redolent of war, for those who ride it today, their lasting impression is of the majesty of nature: jungles coating mountains like melted wax, rivers filling valleys like veins of cobalt, and limestone pillars rising like crenellated fortifications along the Cambodian and Lao borders. I’ve been riding up and down the Ho Chi Minh Road since 2009 and it continues to thrill me.

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HO CHI MINH ROAD
A Complete Guide to an Historic Route
In this comprehensive guide to the entire length of the Ho Chi Minh Road, covering 1,880km from Saigon to Hanoi, I’ve included an annotated route map, quick at-a-glance details, an overview of important considerations, such as distance, duration, weather, accommodation, etc., and fully illustrated descriptions of each section of the route. As this is a very long road trip, I’ve divided my guide into 3 Parts: Southern, Central and Northern. These are then subdivided into 8 Sections (see Contents below). Riders can choose to ride the whole route or just parts of it, but if you only ride one stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road, make sure it’s the Central Part (sections 3-6), which is where the very best scenery and riding can be found.
CONTENTS:
Southern Part
Section 1: Saigon→Đồng Xoài→Gia Nghĩa→Buôn Ma Thuột | 340km
Section 2: Buôn Ma Thuột→Pleiku→Kon Tum | 230km
Central Part
Section 3: Kon Tum→Khâm Đức→Prao | 280km
Section 4: Prao→A Lưới→Khe Sanh | 210km
Section 5: Khe Sanh→Long Sơn→Phong Nha | 230km
Section 6: Phong Nha→Hương Khê→Phố Châu | 180km
Northern Part
Section 7: Phố Châu→Tân Kỳ→Cẩm Thủy | 260km
Section 8: Cẩm Thủy→Cúc Phương→Hanoi | 150km
ROUTE MAP:
Ho Chi Minh Road | 1,880km
Blue Line: Ho Chi Minh Road | Red Lines: bypasses
*Road Safety & Disclaimer: Riding a motorbike in Vietnam – or anywhere in the world – has its dangers. I would hope & expect anyone who chooses to pursue a self-drive road trip based on the information on this website does so with care, respect & due diligence. I encourage careful riding & adherence to road rules, but I am not responsible for the legality or manner in which you ride, nor any negative consequences which may result from your decision to ride a motorbike in Vietnam: you do so at your own risk. Read more >


Overview & Details:
Below is a brief at-a-glance overview of the Ho Chi Minh Road, followed by more specific details about important considerations, such as time, distance, duration, accommodation, traffic, food and drink, weather conditions and more:
QUICK DETAILS:
- Route: an historic road traversing the mountainous western spine of Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi
- Distance: 1,880km (full route)
- Duration: 2 weeks (full route)
- Scenery: agricultural plateaus, jungles, limestone mountains, river valleys, borderlands, highland cities & villages
- Attractions: caves, waterfalls, historic sites, mountain passes, war remnants, good riding, remote villages
- Road Conditions: mostly good, wide, paved roads; some narrow sections, mostly light traffic; some busy sections
- Best Time: March-September
ABOUT THIS ROUTE:

Start & End: The start/end of this route is Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in the south and Hanoi, the capital, in the north. You can ride the Ho Chi Minh Road in either direction; it makes no difference. Although, technically the Ho Chi Minh Road doesn’t actually start/end in the heart of these two cities, I have chosen the city centres as the start/end point because it is most convenient to do so. In fact, the Ho Chi Minh Road continues further south of Saigon and further north from Hanoi, but only some sections of those are completed. Riding the entire length of the Ho Chi Minh Road is a great road trip, but it’s also possible to join the road at almost any point along its length by taking one of the many east-west roads that link the mountains with the coast. If you only ride one stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road, make sure it’s the Central Part (sections 3-6), as this is one of the best rides in Vietnam, including the jaw-dropping Western Ho Chi Minh Road (section 5) between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha.
Distances & Duration: The total distance of the Ho Chi Minh Road from Saigon to Hanoi is 1,880km. If you want to ride the entire route, 2 weeks is about right. But it depends how you want to ride: long distances on consecutive days or shorter distances with stops for a couple of nights at interesting destinations. For reference, a long riding day on Vietnamese roads is 200km-400km; a reasonable day is 100km-200km.
Itineraries & Sections: I have written and arranged this route going from south to north, starting in Saigon and ending in Hanoi. However, you can ride the Ho Chi Minh Road in either direction – it makes no difference. I have divided the Ho Chi Minh Road into 8 Sections (see Contents). It is possible to treat each of these sections as one day on the road, but it is not necessary to do so: you can plan your itinerary however you like. As a general rule, the more flexible you are, the better your road trip will be. The only section that you really need to plan ahead for is Section 5, which is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha, where there is just one place to stay and one gas station.
Using the Map: My route map has the entire 1,880km-length of the Ho Chi Minh Road from Saigon to Hanoi marked with a blue line. In addition, the red lines are bypasses which lead around major towns on the route. I’ve also marked all major cities and towns with a red pin as well as dozens of sights and accommodations along the way. To use the map and guide offline with navigation, you can purchase the Ho Chi Minh Road Offline Map & Guide at the top of this page.
Weather & Time of Year: As the Ho Chi Minh Road covers the length of the nation and is so mountainous, it is difficult to determine the best time of year to ride it. However, weather conditions from March to September are generally the most favourable. From October to February, there’s a high chance of grey and damp (and even cold) conditions anywhere north of Prao (sections 4-8). Vietnam’s climate is very complex and often misrepresented by the travel media. Take a look at my Weather Guide to better understand the seasons and climate throughout the nation.
Traffic & Road Conditions: For much of its length, the Ho Chi Minh Road is a relatively quiet, well-maintained, two-lane highway which sees very little traffic compared to other major north-south routes, namely Highway 1 (QL1A). What’s more, many of the major cities and towns where traffic tends to bottleneck, especially in the southern sections, are bypassed by new ring roads (the red lines on my map). By far the quietest and most remote stretch is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha (Section 5). This is also significant because it is the only section that’s fairly narrow and made primarily of concrete slabs.
Gas Stations: Throughout its entire length, gas stations are pretty frequent on the Ho Chi Minh Road. Nevertheless, it’s best not to let your fuel gauge get into the red before looking to fill up. The only exception is, again, the Western Ho Chi Minh Road between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha (Section 5). This 240km stretch only has one gas station, and even that is sometimes closed.
Accommodation: There are places to stay at almost every city, town and village marked on my map with a red pin. Obviously, the bigger cities have a greater range of accommodation; some of the smaller settlements may only have one or two local guest houses (nhà nghỉ). I have marked dozens of specific places to stay on my map with an orange bed pin, but these are just some examples of what’s available. Unless you are travelling during a public holiday or want to stay in a specific place, there’s no need to book accommodation in advance. The only stretch of road where there is very limited accommodation is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road (Section 5), between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha, where there is just one option to overnight, which is the Trường Thành Hotel in Long Sơn.
Food & Drink: There are plenty of dining and drinking options in the cities, towns and villages along the Ho Chi Minh Road. Obviously, the cities have the widest variety, but even the smaller villages have at least a handful of cơm-phở (rice and noodle) eateries. The only stretch where this isn’t the case is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road, between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha (Section 5). On this stretch, it’s wise to take a picnic, because there’s very little to eat for most of the 240km ride, beyond pot noodles and various sweet snacks.




Section 1:
Saigon→Đồng Xoài→Gia Nghĩa→Buôn Ma Thuột | 340km
[View Map]
There are many ways to ride out of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) due north via the industrial hub of Bình Dương to the beginning of the Ho Chi Minh Road proper. Unfortunately, no matter which route you choose, it is a rather unpleasant 90-minute ride through factory towns and truck-clogged highways. However, if you take the route I suggest on my map, via the impressive ‘new cities’ of Bình Dương and Bến Cát, the roads are mostly wide and well-maintained, and if you leave early in the morning (before 5am), then the journey is bearable enough. You could even take a brief detour to the haunting ruins of Cầu Sông Bé Bridge.
At the intersection with QL13, turn due east onto the Ho Chi Minh Road: this is the start of the road that will take you all the way north for 1,800km. The road glides through acres of rubber plantations and there are already signs of the rich red soil that characterizes the Central highlands – even the light has a reddish tinge to it. After passing through the bustling town of Đồng Xoài (literally ‘Mango Field’) the road begins its slow climb up to the fertile plateaus of Đắk Nông and Đắk Lấk provinces. It’s easy to forget just how big Vietnam is: here, at one of the widest points of the nation, the landscape is broad, open and undulating as it stretches all the way west to the Cambodian border. As the road ascends, the air cools slightly, the sun feels more intense, the light get sharper, and fruit plantations carpet the landscape – cashew, jackfruit and rubber – punctuated by several gigantic bauxite mines. The scenery is not spectacular, but it is interesting, agricultural and vast. Traffic is not too bad, but trucks regularly ply this section, transporting agricultural products from the highlands to the cities and ports on the coast. Gia Nghĩa, the capital of Đắk Nông Province, is a good place to overnight with several accommodation options, food, cafes and the striking Liên Nung Waterfall nearby.
North of Gia Nghiã, the Ho Chi Minh Road ascends into scruffy pine forests before skirting the Cambodian border near Đắk Mil, then veering northeast towards Buôn Ma Thuột, the largest city in the Central Highlands. This is the coffee growing capital of Vietnam: the vast plateaus are blanketed in coffee bushes, as well as cacao and tropical fruits. The landscape in this region is dotted with extinct volcanoes which make the soil rich and fertile. Post 1975, there was a government push to populate this area which has led to a densely cultivated, productive, agricultural landscape. Although the scenery isn’t particularly inspiring, the road surface is excellent and the riding is a joy, meandering on a river of asphalt to Buôn Ma Thuột, a busy and increasingly prosperous city with lots of hotels, food and excellent coffee shops to sample the local product, such as Topo Botanic Garden.





Section 2:
Buôn Ma Thuột→Pleiku→Kon Tum | 230km
[View Map]
The stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road between Buôn Ma Thuột and Kon Tum is a straight shoot across vast agricultural plateaus, past thriving highland towns and cities, and a landscape that was once the scene of heavy fighting. Even though some of the towns in this section are congested, new bypasses (see the red lines on my map) now sweep around them in spectacular fashion, creating some great riding roads. The enormous undulating plateau is broken regularly by the vertical monoliths of wind turbines, rotating slowly across the landscape. The scenery may not be pretty but road conditions are excellent as the asphalt soars across the plateau, slicing through plantations where clouds of yellow butterflies drift across the road.
Heading north from Buôn Ma Thuột, the road plunges through miles and miles of coffee and pepper farms, passionfruit orchards and rubber plantations stretching to the horizon. The neat ranks of spindly rubber trees, standing erect on the hillsides, look like formations of a medieval army on a battlefield, waiting for the fighting to commence. Indeed, a battle did take place in these hills, some 60 years ago, between American forces and the North Vietnamese Army. In 1965, in the Ia Đrăng Valley to the west of the Ho Chi Minh Road, hundreds of US troops and thousands of Vietnamese were killed fighting under a deluge of bombs from B52s, in what was the first direct conflict between the two sides of what became known, in the West, as the ‘Vietnam War’, but what is known in Vietnam as the ‘American War’. Today, the Ia Đrăng Valley is an especially dry place: the earth is red and has a crisp, burnt crust to it and the colours are washed out, even the distant peaks are beige and arid.
Pleiku is a large, busy city, capital of the second biggest province in Vietnam, Gia Lai. Even though it’s not a particularly attractive city, there’s lots of accommodation here, a decent cafe scene and plenty of food options, making it a fine place to overnight. However, given the choice, the next town, Kon Tum, is a better option. Between Pleiku and Kon Tum, the Ho Chi Minh Road is arrow-straight, passing several dormant volcanoes until the plateau finally gives way to lush mountains and valleys surrounding the Đăk Bla River. Kon Tum, peaceful during the day and pleasantly abuzz in the evenings, is located on the riverside with some good cafes, hotels, street food, interesting architecture and even a couple of cocktail bars. Don’t miss the impressive bamboo interior of Indochine Coffee, one of many works by Võ Trọng Nghiã who is Vietnam’s best-known architect. For a drink, drop by the speakeasy-style The Witch’s Cocktail Bar.





Section 3:
Kon Tum→Khâm Đức→Prao | 280km
[View Map]
North from Kon Tum the Ho Chi Minh Road rolls through a heavily farmed and surprisingly densely populated landscape to Đắk Tô, scene of some of the fiercest battles of the American War. The countryside still bears the scars of all the bombs and defoliants that were dropped on the hills and forests here during the autumn of 1967. Just after Đắk Tô town, the road runs parallel with an abandoned US airstrip, now used by local farmers to dry their crops. As the road bears west, the next stop is the dusty crossroads town of Ngọc Hồi, gateway to the the triple international border crossing between Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos at Bờ Y.
Following the course of the Đăk Pô Kô River north to the village of Đăk Glei, the Ho Chi Minh Road meanders along an agricultural valley where the forests have been decimated in recent years: it looks as though the trees have been vacuumed off the hillsides. However, north of Đăk Glei, the road begins to climb up Lò Xo Pass where the jungles close in and the road soars steeply around the foothills of Ngọc Linh (2,598m), the highest mountain in all of central and southern Vietnam. At the top of the pass, the scenery gets even better as agriculture is pushed from the mountainsides down to the river valleys, forced there by dense tropical forests that appear to melt over the mountains like candle-wax, dripping down the steep contours and washed by relentless cascades of rain-water, draining off the mountains in gushing waterfalls, and swelling the rivers below. A joyous ride along a cinnamon-scented valley leads to the friendly little village of Khâm Đức. A sleepy, likeable place surrounded by purple mountains and fresh highlands air, Khâm Đức has a couple of small hotels for an overnight stay.
The stretch of road from Khâm Đức to Thạnh Mỹ – following a wide and rocky river valley carving through the mountains and jungle – is an excellent ride. Gold was discovered here some years ago, and even today you may see people standing waist-deep in the eddies, panning for the precious metal. Thạnh Mỹ is a strange, dull place at a large crossroads of waterways. Pass straight through it, across the river, and continue due north on the Ho Chi Minh Road towards Prao. This 40km stretch is great fun to ride. Rolling up and down steep slopes and meandering from valley to valley in a glorious slalom, a hypnotic rhythm is induced by the constant switch-backs – lean left, lean right – and the flashes of sunlight piercing through the thick foliage and streaking the road at regular intervals. Eventually, the road drops into a valley and the village of Prao, also called Đông Giang. Here, there are a couple of decent guest houses to stay the night, as well as rice and noodle eateries, cafes and a gas station, where you will need to fill up because there’s very little else for the next 100km to A Lưới.





Section 4:
Prao→A Lưới→Khe Sanh | 210km
[View Map]
One of the emptiest and most jungle-covered stretches of the Ho Chi Minh Road, the century of kilometers between Prao to A Lưới is a rider’s paradise. You’re unlikely to see more than a few other vehicles on the entire section as you corkscrew up and then spiral down the rainforest-clad mountains straddling the Lao border. The air is fresh, clean, clear and sweet, filled with birdsong and the rush of streams and waterfalls. Ridge after ridge of mountains, carpeted in thick forest, appear to wax and wane behind curtains of cloud, mist and rain. At times, when the road can go no higher, it simply glides along the mountain ridge; when the slope is too sheer for the road to continue, eerie dark tunnels burrow beneath the mountaintops to the other side. There are very few man-made structures in the landscape, save for a remote abandoned army outpost near the Lao border and a couple of forestry huts dedicated to the protection of the rare and endangered Sao La. Also known as the ‘Asian Unicorn’, this pretty, deer-like animal wasn’t even known to science until the 1990s, and it has still never been seen in the wild by a Westerner. Very few are left, but those that are live deep in these forests.
The land levels out as the road glides across a wide agricultural valley to A Lưới, a very friendly little settlement strung along either side of the Ho Chi Minh Road. There’s a large local market, some street food and a couple of OK guesthouses for a night or homestays around the nearby Anor Waterfall.
The next 100km to Khe Sanh is a very pretty ride through an area that was once a major conflict zone. Quảng Trị Province is the most heavily bombed in all Vietnam. Even today, it’s estimated that 80% of land is still affected by UXO (unexploded ordnance). From A Lứơi, the road leads through a wide valley covered in tropical trees – papaya, banana, cinnamon, pineapple, teak. Mountains rise in all directions and local children wave their arms in excitement as you pass through hamlets of wooden stilt houses. You’d never guess that the barren, rounded mountain to the west was the infamous Hamburger Hill. Of course, sites like this make you pause and contemplate the war but, happily, as the road continues up the Pê Kê Pass, along glistening rivers and the jagged Đa Krông valley, it’s the beauty of the landscape and the warmth of local people, rather the tragedy of war, that causes you to stop and reflect.
The last 15km is a steep climb due west to Khe Sanh, a frontier town not far from Lao Bảo, one of Vietnam’s busiest international gateways to Laos. Indeed, the road and town are often full of trucks and buses bound for Vientiane, the Lao capital. Khe Sanh is a dusty market town surrounded by windfarms and the Tà Cơn airbase, site of the infamous siege of Khe Sanh in 1968. The town, which has a couple of decent hotels (Khánh Phương Luxury is by far the best) and places to eat, is a logical overnight stop before tackling the remote and magnificent Western Ho Chi Minh Road the next day. Khe Sanh is at the right altitude and has the right climate to grow the coveted arabica coffee bean. There are several good cafes to sample the local coffee, which is among the best in Vietnam. Get some rest and stock up on supplies (especially gas for your motorbike) in preparation for the next day’s ride into the wonderland that is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road (see Section 5).





Section 5:
Khe Sanh→Long Sơn→Phong Nha | 230km
[View Map]
The 230km/240km stretch from Khe Sanh to Phong Nha/Khe Gát is known as the Western Ho Chi Minh Road and it is unquestionably one of the best rides in Vietnam. The scenery is terrific but riders should take note that there are only a couple of gas stations and accommodation options along the entire route and there are very few settlements, people or vehicles.
I’ve mapped the only two gas stations (one in Hướng Phùng, the other in Long Sơn) on my map. However, both gas stations are sometimes closed or run out of supplies, so it’s a good idea to carry a 1.5 litre plastic bottle of petrol with you in case of emergencies. It’s also worth buying some snacks and drinks for the journey, as there’s precious little in the way of dining options for over 200km. With the opening of a new hotel in Long Sơn – roughly halfway between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha – it’s now possible to ride the Western Ho Chi Minh Road over two days, which gives you all the time you need to take it slowly and really appreciate this remarkable ride. The alternative is to ride the full distance in one day, which means starting early in the morning, because 240km is a long way on such windy roads and your average speed will likely be just 30km-40km per hour. (See the following guide for more details: The Hotel & Gas on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road.)
A few kilometres northwest of Khe Sanh, past the Tà Cơn airfield, the road surface changes to the distinctive concrete slabs that characterize the rest of the Western Ho Chi Minh Road. Rolling across an undulating agricultural landscape – planted with colossal wind turbines – the road drops into the dusty village of Hướng Phùng, where there’s a gas station, shops, cafes and a couple of overnight options. Immediately out of town, the road starts to climb the Sa Mù Pass and things get really, really good. Jungles engorge mountain streams that run clean and clear through rifts in the foliage, the road soars, and people and buildings disappear from the landscape. The road swirls down to a crossroads for a remote Lao border gate before beginning another extraordinary ascent into the jungles and mountains, and through remote villages of wooden homes where everyone runs into the road to wave hello, as if they’ve been waiting there all day for you to pass. It just gets better and better, the further and further you go. From here all the way to Phong Nha or Khe Gát, it’s just a matter of letting the scenery wash over you: bend after bend, pass after pass, the landscape folds you in its peaks and valleys, rivers and forests.
After passing the potential overnight stop of Son Homestay and through the rustic hamlet of Tăng Ký, the road runs alongside the Long Đại River, a bucolic valley that, in good weather conditions, is a seam of turquoise running between jade-green limestone hills illuminated by the fresh Trường Sơn mountain light with its distinctive purple glaze. As the scenery reaches its prettiest, the village of Long Sơn appears by a meander in the river. With a gas station, a decent hotel and some shops, this spectacularly located little settlement is the ideal (and the only) place to break your journey on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road. Given the chance, I’d highly recommend staying at the Trường Thành Hotel for a night before continuing to Phong Nha or Khe Gát the next day.
Continuing due north from Long Sơn there is a wonderful, iconic vista back across the valley and the village. Just a couple of minutes further on, don’t miss the picturesque suspension bridge high above the Long Đại River, which is a great photo opportunity and, if you scramble down to the riverbank, an excellent swimming spot. After many hours and much fabulous scenery on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it can’t get any better: but it does. Once the road enters the confines of Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park, the strange, haunting shapes of jungle-clad limestone mountains come into view. Eroded by the elements over millions of years, these mountains have been sculpted by nature into soaring pillars and pinnacles, many of them resembling the crooked pointy peaks of wizards’ and witches’ hats. For 100km kilometers, the road threads a course between these magical natural edifices. It is a breathtaking ride, and what’s more there is nobody else around. Enjoy it, because the word is bound to get out.
In such a remote and geologically fascinating place as this, it is perhaps not surprising that the region was holding a very big secret. It turns out that the marvels of this national park continue under the mountains. In 2009, it was announced that the largest cave in the world, Sơn Đoòng, had been discovered here. Not only that, but the area is full of impressive caverns, many of which can be easily accessed from the Western Ho Chi Minh Road, such as Paradise Cave, Dark Cave, and Phong Nha Cave, and others that can be visited via multi-day expeditions with professional tour companies in Phong Nha. These are all wonderful places to visit, but try to come on a weekday (not a weekend or holiday) when the caves are less crowded.
At an intersection, riders have a choice: bear left (due northwest) to stay on the Ho Chi Minh Road to Khe Gát (20km), or bear right (due northeast) to continue to Phong Nha village (15km). Phong Nha is a good place to overnight and do some some sightseeing. There are lots of good accommodation options and the area is a travellers enclave, with trendy cafes, international cuisine and a lively atmosphere. A day or two here to rest and relax makes sense before rejoining the Ho Chi Minh Road again.







Section 6:
Phong Nha→Hương Khê→Phố Châu | 180km
[View Map]
Leaving Phong Nha and Khe Gát junction behind, the Ho Chi Minh Road bears due northwest, starting with a long, straight section of road running beneath a line of limestone mountains, following the course of a war-era military airstrip. This gives way to the steep and wide Đá Đẽo Pass, which curls around the mountains offering Jurassic Park-like views across a lush landscape of jungles and karsts. Beyond the pass, the road ploughs on alongside blue rivers bisecting verdant valleys between vertical limestone pillars and wooden hamlets clustered on the narrow plains. Traffic is very light and the scenery is excellent for the entire 100km stretch between Phong Nha and the junction at Tân Ấp. If you have time, there are several small paved lanes leading off the highway to some wonderful swimming spots on the river.
After Tân Ấp, the scenery becomes much gentler: the valleys are wide and cultivated, the road is straight, the mountains recede into the distance and traffic gets heavier thanks to trucks plying between Lao border gates in the west. Trade with Laos is booming and this means that transportation corridors linking the two communist nations are blighted by freighters crawling along the roads. Still, the riding is pleasant and swift, road conditions are good and the landscape is big and green if not spectacular. Hương Khê is a surprisingly lively settlement with a large lake and some decent food and accommodation if needed.
Although the last leg to Phố Châu passes some good scenery – rubber, tea and cinnamon plantations and the misty, forested slopes of Vũ Quang National Park to the west – when compared to the dramatic landscapes of the previous days, it seems tame and tainted. Settlements get bigger, concrete houses replace wooden huts, agriculture swallows up the forests and factories appear by the roadside. Phố Châu is a crossroads town at an intersection with Highway QL8A, which leads west to the Cầu Treo border crossing with Laos. There’s not much to recommend Phố Châu, but it’s a natural overnight stop on the Ho Chi Minh Road with some hotels and dining options.





Section 7:
Phố Châu→Tân Kỳ→Cẩm Thủy | 260km
[View Map]
An open, largely empty stretch of road coursing through a landscape of plantations covering the length of Vietnam’s largest province (Nghệ An), the section of the Ho Chi Minh Road between Phố Châu and Tân Kỳ is characterized by gentle hills, terraced tea farms, pine forests and the high misty mountains of Laos to the west. It’s a pleasant, easy and uneventful ride with a few points of interest and worthwhile detours, if you have the time. Thanh Chương lies west of the road, where boats take visitors on a lake surrounded by pretty tea hills and several homestays offer overnight accommodation. Khe Kèm Waterfall is an hour west of the Ho Chi Minh Road, and Kim Liên, the birthplace of the road’s namesake, is a short ride east. What’s more, at Tân Kỳ the KM0 Monument marks the start of the original Ho Chi Minh Trail where supply lines stretched all the way south, through the jungles and over the mountains via Laos, to aid fighting in the south of Vietnam. Tân Kỳ also has some decent accommodation if you need it. If you’re feeling adventurous (and can spare a couple of days), the empty roads and amazing landscapes of the Mường Lống Loop lie further to the west.
At the ‘neck’ of Vietnam, Nghệ An is a vast province and the revolutionary heartland of the nation; many of the country’s most celebrated heroes hail from this region. People here are known as ‘Nghệ An Buffaloes’ on account of their resilience and hardiness to endure the labour involved in working the land and the harsh climate they face throughout the year: massive heat and typhoons in the summer; cold, bleak days in the winter. However, when riding through the province on the Ho Chi Minh Road, its an easy, smooth drive all the way due north to Lam Sơn, a sprawling network of settlements and home to one of Vietnam’s greatest military figures, Lê Lợi (1385-1433), whose temple and tomb can be visited just east of the road at Lam Kinh. There’s some accommodation in and around Lam Sơn, if needed, and this is also the start point of another excellent off-the-beaten-path motorbike route, the Lam Sơn Loop.
Although the land is still rural and cultivated with acres of corn and sugarcane, traffic and industry begin to encroach as the Ho Chi Minh Road ploughs north from Lam Sơn towards Ngọc Lặc and Cẩm Thủy. These two small towns are fine for a night and surrounded by limestone karst mountains, bamboo forests and pretty streams which hint at the magical scenery that lies west of here on the Limestone Loop and in Pù Luông Nature Reserve, which make a great detour, if you have time. If not, bed down and get some rest before the next – and final – leg of the Ho Chi Minh Road.





Section 8:
Cẩm Thủy→Cúc Phương→Hanoi | 150km
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Although the limestone scenery, including forest-covered karst pillars rising from the rice paddies cloaked in mist, continues along the Ho Chi Minh Road for most of the final 150km from Cẩm Thủy to the outskirts of Hanoi, it is spoiled somewhat by the steady increase in truck traffic and pollution from the numerous quarries and cement plants along the highway. Just north of Cẩm Thủy, an interesting detour is due southeast to Thành Nhà Hồ, the impressive remains of an ancient citadel dating from the early 15th century. Otherwise, continuing north on the Ho Chi Minh Road, it’s not long before the asphalt soars on an elevated platform through the jungles of Cúc Phương, declared Vietnam’s first national park by Ho Chi Minh himself, in 1962. The road follows the course of the turquoise Bưởi River as it swerves between rocky peaks. For a break, take the small lane due west along a pretty tributary to Thác Mây (Cloud Waterfall), where there are some good bathing pools and a cluster of homestays.
The procession of limestone hills continues on both sides of the road as the route heads further north, getting closer to journey’s end at the capital. The road surface is generally good and the riding is fine, but you won’t want to spend too much time lingering over this section, because the dust kicked up by passing trucks is unpleasant and the air quality is increasingly poor the closer you get to Hanoi. The last 50km to Xuân Mai and Hòa Lạc can be a very nasty and dirty ride indeed. Turn off the Ho Chi Minh Road at the big intersection at Hòa Lạc and head east on the wide Thăng Long Highway leading straight into the heart of the capital city. If the ride through the industrial suburbs left you feeling depressed, the sight of central Hanoi with its considerable charm is certain to lift your spirits.





*Disclosure: I never receive payment for anything I write: my content is always free and independent. I’ve written this guide because I want to: I like this route and I want my readers to know about it. For more details, see my Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
We rode the Ho Chi Minh road in April from Phong Nha to Thanh My where we turned off the road and went to Hoi An. We rented Honda Waves from Motorvina in Phong Nha and they sent our luggage to their office in Hoi An which we picked up without any problems. The route was incredibly beautiful!!!! Seriously, if you have the chance you have to ride this road. The biggest danger was forgetting that there were other people on the road. We had long stretches where we didn’t pass a single person. The old growth jungle is amazing!
The gas station in Truong Son was closed but there was plenty of gas to be had from the shop in town. We thought we could make it to Khe Sanh before dark but we hit a fog bank about 30km from town that was so thick that we had to drive very slowly and made it to Khe Sanh well after dark. In Khe Sanh we stayed at The Hills Hotel which was really great, and we walked to an amazing restaurant that was packed with locals and pretty rowdy called Quan Com Ga Chien. We had great food and met tons of locals and drank late into the night at this restaurant, highly recommended! The second night we stayed in Prao at Nha Nghi Phan Huyen which was nice and they locked up our bikes at night. The next day we road until Thanh My where we left the Ho Chi Minh Road and took the CT02 (unpleasant highway with lots of trucks) until just before the Song Vu Gia River crossing where we left the highway and took smaller roads all the way to Hoi An.
Hi Rakhal,
Thank you for the trip report. It’s a great ride and I don’t know why more people don’t do it.
Best,
Tom
I noticed in the last comment, between Phang Nha and LongSon, a landslip completely blocking the road (looks like this happened quite a while ago)….and a narrow section of rocky trail which bypasses this blockage, allowing riders to continue on the HCMRoad.
When I came across this in torrential rain recently, I thought my ride had come to an end, until I ventured up this (muddy & slippery) track to discover it connected me back onto the main road, where I continued riding.
Be aware of this…..and don’t turn around thinking you’re on the wrong road, as I nearly did !!
Hi John,
Thanks for the update. Yes, landslides can occur on the Ho Chi Minh Road during heavy rains, but in general they are cleared pretty quickly in Vietnam because they are so common. And, as in this case, even if the road isn’t cleared, there’s usually a path cleared for motorbikes.
Best,
Tom
My wife and I rode the Ho Chi Minh Road southbound from Lam Son to A Luoi (approximately sections 7, 6, 5 and 4 in this guide) over 10 days in April 2025. We began by riding from Hanoi to Pu Luong and completing some rides from the “Limestone Loop” post, and we’re going to continue along the coast, then through Dalat to HCMC. Thus far, the journey has been unforgettable! Here are a few of my takeaways:
General notes
* We each have our own bike, 110cc Honda Waves, rented from Style motorbikes. The bikes are high quality and Style has provided a lot of support, including talking on the phone with local mechanics.
* Get the offline guide. It’s so easy to reference, I’ve been using it a ton.
* Wear long pants, long sleeves and gloves for the sun. Wear a mask for the smog & exhaust.
* Banh Mis make delectable roadside lunches.
Specific sections:
* Section 8 –
* leaving Hanoi is, as advertised, not very enjoyable. Ride safely, wear a mask, and keep in mind the many treasures that await.
* Section 7 –
* Gio Lau Ecolodge had great vibes, good food, and was very affordable.
* Section 6 –
* The stretch north of Tan Ap junction was among my least favorite – lots of trucks. However, toiling through it is the price of admission for the incredible riding from Tan Ap > Phong Nha.
* I recommend spending a few nights in Phong Nha to drink in the scenery and see some caves – we did an Oxalis tour which was really well done and a completely unique experience.
* Section 5 –
* The ~100km after (and before) Phong Nha are amazing. Relish your opportunity to ride them.
* As the guide suggests, bring an extra 1.5 liters of petrol for this section. There is a gas station crucially situated in Long Son, but it has unreliable hours (it was open for us).
* If you take a side quest across the suspension bridge north of Long Sam, you can ride right to the river to swim — no need to scramble.
* ~60km south of Phone Nha we encountered a landslide which had forced a short but rocky detour.
* There was also minor construction on Sa Mu pass, nothing but a slowdown.
* Section 4 –
* There is a relatively new homestay in an otherwise desolate stretch (Phong Nha > Khe San) called Nam Mua. It was a great stay with great food!
* There’s a suspension bridge you cross shortly after leaving Khe Sanh, where the riding is great, but the road is unfinished is many sections. Nothing technical, you’ve just gotta slow down to 15 or 20kmph.
* Although it’s not part of the HCM Road, the ride from A Luoi > Hue follows a wonderful jungle-covered canyon. Really great riding.
Thank you for this guide, Tom. And to the rest of you, happy riding!
Hi Leo,
Thanks you. It’s great to hear you enjoyed the ride and that my Offline Guide & Map was useful.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thank you for your beautiful detailed guide, It’s been most helpful to me in my decision process.
May i please ask you this?
I’m a solo woman traveler in Vietnam. I did not plan to ride a motorbike here although i have ridden in the past (i ride locally here), but in the month that i have been here, the calling is just too strong. I plan to try ride the ho chi Minh road from Cuc phoung to Phong nha.
Is it too dangerous to do it alone? I haven’t found active groups to get info and know if others will be one these sections at that time. And if you do think it is possible for me to do it, slowly and carefully (3-4 days, with your map to buy), are the roads in these sections moderate and relatively suitable for my conditions?
Thank you very much, i appreciate any help.
Sharona
Hi Sharona,
Yes, it is possible for you to ride the sections between Cuc Phuong and Phong Nha as a solo woman traveller riding carefully over 3-4 days. The road conditions are good and traffic is mostly very light, so as long as you ride carefully and give yourself plenty of time, you should be fine.
I hope you enjoy it.
Best,
Tom
Update from January 2025 – last few kilometres (~ 10-15 kilometres) and a couple of sections (~20 kilometres) before Prao and Khe Sanh, respectively, have a fair bit of road work happening at the moment. I’d recommend you check the state of your tyres when there’s a small town that passes as it can be a bit difficult to mend on your own.
Hi Vaibhav,
Thanks for the update. Yes, I agree, it’s always a good idea to take it slow on any sections of road that have works or are bumpy, because it’s easy to get a puncture, which is very inconvenient.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I’m riding from Saigon to Hanoi the end of Feb/beginning of March. Will the weather be decent on the Ho Chi Minh Road at that time?
Thank you,
Damian
Hi Damian,
Please take a look at this section of the guide and scroll down to ‘Weather & Time of Year’ for some information about conditions on the Ho Chi Minh Road.
Best,
Tom
Thanks Tom. I guess you take your chances in the North at that time of year?
Hi Damian,
It’s probably a guide idea to take a look at my Vietnam Weather Guide for more information about conditions at different times of year in different parts of the country. And you can also refer to my specific guides for northern routes and check the section in each guide that refers to the weather conditions.
Best,
Tom
Thanks Tom. Appreciate it!
Damian
The Ho Chi Minh Road is a fabulous presentation, Tom.
All the fabulous food is driving me crazy in a pleasant way !!! Thank you sincerely,
Ben Wilson, Sr USA
Thanks, Ben.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Is it possible for you to share your google map with my email address so that I can download it to my own maps for use in Vietnam? I am happy to pay for it.
Natasha
Hi Natasha,
I have actually just finished completely rewriting and remapping this guide, and next week I will be republishing it with the option to buy the map and PDF for offline use. This will be ready by the end of next week (27 September).
If you are interested in this, you can subscribe for free here and you will get an email notification when the map & guide package is available.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Next year I am planning to do a small section of this route by scooter. I was thinking about doing it from north to south. From Hanoi I would take a train to Hue, where I would rent a scooter, and from there I would go first to A Luoi, from A Luoi down all the way to Buon Ma Thuot(following your route, just backwards :-)), from Buon Ma Thuot leaving the Ho Chi Minh road for the coast at Nha Trang(I leave the bike here). I am doing it this way, because my plane will land in Hanoi, and after the journey I would like to spend a couple of days on the beach in Nha Trang, and chill. From Nha Trang I would take a train to Saigon, where I would finish my vacation. What are your thoughts on my plans? Would I miss the most intresting sections doing it this way? Thanks in advance for your reply!
Vincent
Hi Vincent,
That’s sounds fine to me. The best sections of the Ho Chi Minh Road for scenery are Kon Tom all the way to Pho Chau, so you’ll b covering enough of that.
I will be publishing a brand new guide to the Ho Chi Minh Road in the coming weeks, so if you want to get an email notification about that, you can subscribe (free) here.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thank you very much! If it’s okay I’d like to ask one more question. Do you think that late March and early April is okay for my specific route? What I mean is that I want to avoid rain and cold weather as much as possible. I don’t mind the heat so much.
Thanks
Vince
Hi Vincent,
Yes, that is a good time of year – in fact, I just rode the entire Ho Chi Minh Road in April.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the very informative guide. Are there any areas on the route to avoid for police checkpoints?
Very best,
Rufus
Hi Rufus,
Well, as the Ho Chi Minh Road is nearly 2,000km long, there will likely be places along the route that you may see police or traffic police. But the road is open for everyone – Vietnamese or foreign – to ride, so there are no official ‘checkpoints’ as such. Just ride it and enjoy it 🙂
Best,
Tom
Hey Tom,
I am hoping to do a section of the HCMR around April 20th or so, here is my tentative route.
Day 1 – Thanh Hoa out to Lam Son, then South to Pho Chau (257 km)
Day 2 – Pho Chau down to Phong Nha (177 km)
Day 3 – Phong Nha to Khe San (241 km)
Day 4 – Khe San to Da Nang via QL14 (328 km)
What’s your knowledge of the weather conditions for this part of the country in late April? Should I be ready for showers? Secondly, do you think there is something I can alter to add a little more to Day 2 so I can shave off some km for Day 4? Thanks!
Hi Ryan,
Weather conditions toward the end of April should generally be OK, but there might still be some showers around, and if it does rain it can still be surprisingly cold on the high passes. Read more in my Weather Guide.
If you want to ride more kms on Day 2, you could continue past Phong Nha all the way to Long Son where there’s at least one hotel and apparently another (better) one, too.
Best,
Tom
An update on lodging near Khe Sanh:
Khanh Phuong opened a sister location called Khanh Phuong Luxury. I had planned to stay there, but even though it’s a new hotel, the sheets were dirty and you could hear bad karaoke being blasted from across the street.
I ended up staying at Retro Glamping. It’s a set of cabins and a coffee shop that opened just outside of Khe Sanh (coming from Hue/A Luoi). They’re pretty basic: a camping pad on a raised platform with a puffy blanket and two pillows. There’s a shower stall with a toilet. There’s no sink inside, but the water isn’t potable here anyway. Even though it’s on the highway, it seemed quieter and cleaner than the hotels in the city. The people were very friendly, and the coffee shop has a panoramic view of the canyon during daylight.
I think there are six cabins, total. They’re not on Airbnb yet, but the owner said they will be eventually.
It’s an acceptable accommodation in a part of Vietnam that doesn’t seem to have any good options.
Hi,
Thanks for the update. Retro Glamping sounds like a good place to overnight – I will try to check it out next time I’m in the area.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I have been following the comments on this wonderful site. Thank you for your service.
I will be riding solo on the Ho Chi Minh Road north from Danang February 2023 on a Honda Blade. How is the gas situation along the way? Do I need to carry a gas container to be safe? I assume that gas containers are available in Vietnam.
Chúc mừng năm mới Tân Mão.
Hi Hieu,
Thanks for your comment.
The only section of the Ho Chi Minh Road that you need to consider bringing extra gas is the Western Ho Chi Minh Road between Khe Sanh and Phong Nha. There are now at least two gas stations on that stretch, at Long Son, which is roughly half way. However, they are not always open so you can’t really rely on it. As long as you fill up at Khe Sanh you should only need to bring one 1.5ltr bottle of gas with you – you can fill up an empty bottle at the gas stations in Khe Sanh. Also, take a look at sections 4 & 5 of this guide for a bit more detail.
Bear in mind that it can be surprisingly cold and grey on the Ho Chi Minh Road north of Danang to Hanoi at that time of year!
Best,
Tom
Thank you so much for your prompt response. I will look for a 1.5 liter gas container in Danang. BTW, I forgot that I had used my other email, hieusha@gmail.com, to subscribe to your posts. Thanks again. /Hieu
Hi Tom,
How feasible is it for an experienced solo rider to get from Phong Nha to Hanoi in 2 days? Ive been looking at maps and your plan here and was wondering if I could do Phong Nha to Cam Thuy in a big day, bailing at Tan Ky overnight if I have to. Leave early the following morning for Hanoi and getting in at a reasonable time in the afternoon.
I understand fatigue, weather, traffic and road conditions can all come into play but do you reckon it’s worth a go?
Thanks very much for putting all this together, you’ve done a magnificent job.
Hi Paul,
From Phong Nha to Hanoi on the Ho Chi Minh Road is roughly 550-580km. Because about 2/3 of that is pretty quiet, well-made road you can keep an average speed on 50-70kmph (70 is the limit for motorbikes). However, that doesn’t include stops for anything – gas, food, drink, tiredness, mechanical problems, weather etc.
The short answer is yes, if you don’t have any issues you can ride from Phong Nha to Hanoi in 2 days, but they will be long days, and the closer you get to Hanoi, the worse the traffic (and scenery) gets. But the first half from Phong Nha goes through some terrific scenery.
I’ve actually ridden this route in 2 days twice before. It was long and tiring, but doable.
Best,
Tom
Thanks very much for your help Tom
Hi Tom,
The site is amazing- I love your take on the highlights of Vietnam being the little things, rather than the “sights” it is how we approach travel everywhere.
We (partner and I) are planning out Vietnam trip for April and May this year. We are travelling roughly North to South. Because of the current 30 day visa situation we need to fit in a visa run mid trip (geographically as well as temporarily). For us this means crossing at Lao Bao between our time in Phong Nha and Hue. We are not bike riders, and would not be comfortable being pillion passengers for this length of ride either. Do you think that it is “worth it” to hire a car and driver in Phong Nha to drive the HCM road to Khe Sanh (or Lao Bao), overnight there, do a visa run and the either the same driver or a new one or bus on to Hue. How long would you guess it would take in a car between PN and KS? About 5 hrs + stops? Really just wondering if it is worth trying to turn this hassle (visa run) into a pleasurable part of the trip vs sticking to conventional transport via the coast via Dong Ha?
Many thanks
Hi Raina,
Thank you for your kind words.
The short answer is yes I think it’s worth taking the Western Ho Chi Minh Road from Phong Nha to Khe Sanh for your visa run to Lao Bao. That stretch of road is one of the best in Vietnam and the scenery is fabulous – also April/May should be a good time of year for weather. Just look at the photos that illustrate this route to get an idea of what it’s like.
Unfortunately, being inside a car just isn’t the same experience as being ‘outside’ on a bike. But it will still be worth it. I’m pretty sure if you contact Ben at Phong Nha Farmstay, he’ll either be able to arrange something or he’ll know someone who can. In fact, he might even be able to get you some kind of open-top vehicle for the journey. You can mention me and Vietnam Coracle – we know each other. Of course, you’ll need to pay a certain amount for the trip. It’s a long way – around 250km on very mountainous roads, so it’s a full day in the car, including the stops you’ll want to make for viewing the landscape.
I hope this helps,
Tom
Thank you very much
Hey! Quick update on the western HCM road, south of Phong Nha.
This morning, the gas stations of Tang KY and Long Son were closed. Around 9/10am, so no real reason to be closed I guess.
I was glad I brought 3 liters.
Have a safe trip friends!
Hi Jean-David,
Thank you for this update.
There’s been a gasoline shortage in Vietnam recently, so that might be one reason why the gas stations weren’t open. I’m glad you bought gas with you so it didn’t spoil your trip.
Thanks again,
Tom
Hi Tom. In May I did a solo motorbike trip in Central Vietnam. The Ho Chi Minh road is spectacular. On the section Khe Sanh to Phong Nha I followed your advice about staying in Long Son as I’m 68 years old and knew that stretch of road would be too many hours in the saddle for me in one day. Plus I was in no hurry. Well the Duc Tuan hotel was a bit of a challenge. It was locked up tight and I had a bit of a drama trying to find someone to open up. It was pretty musty and certainly had an unused feel about it. The bed, as you noted, was hard. But I couldn’t be choosy and made the best of it. It served its purpose.
A few weeks later I met a couple that had the same problem as me but couldn’t find anyone at all to open the hotel and give them a room. Despondent they continued on. But they didn’t have to go far! Around the corner to the North is a new place the Truong Thanh Hotel. Apparently it’s nicer than Duc Tuan. They paid $ 15 for a room. So now there’s a second option to break up that long ride.
Truong Thanh Hotel in Long son. 0844870151. 0915256892.
Hi Simon,
Thank you so much for this important update. It’s great to hear there’s another (better) accommodation choice on the Western Ho Chi Minh Road. I look forward to trying it myself sometime in the near future.
Thanks again.
Best,
Tom
Big thanks to you, Tom, for providing such comprehensive and helpful guides and to all the others for your additions.
I just did the section from Prao to Phong Nha and stayed at the Truong Thanh Hotel in Long Son. I paid 300k for the room, which was very clean and modern and had a nice view towards the limestone hills. I had a great stay! The mattress was hard, but I tend to sleep well on those.
Oh, by the way: the door at Duc Than was also open, however I did not have a look inside.
Hi Moritz,
Thanks for that – great update about the hotel. Glad to hear it’s a decent one and that you enjoyed your road trip.
(I prefer hard mattresses too!)
Best,
Tom
Do you have this trip in reverse, from Hanoi to HCMC?
Hi Strumpher,
Yes, you can follow this route in either direction. The map works both ways: Saigon to Hanoi or Hanoi to Saigon.
Best,
Tom